Engine Cooling Fan Issues

[Hypnotic818]

Hey everyone! Working through the kinks on the car and right now I'm fighting with the cooling fan. The harness and motor burned up last year sometime so I bought a replacement motor and just destroyed the harness to pull the wires out of it and I've been running it like that for some time.

Well last week the motor died. Replaced again and now it just refuses to turn on. I've checked 60 and 10 amp fuses. It turns on with the tester but not when the car is hot. If the car is hot and I turn off the car and turn it back on the fan will turn on for half a second than power back off again.

I've ran a switch connected to pin 17 which is high power and you can hear the CCRM click like it wants to send the power signal but it just doesn't turn on still. Anybody got any ideas of what it can be? It only needs to be a temp fix because I'm buying an SR fan to match my SR rad in the next month.

Any help will greatly appreciated!

 

[Dan_Soprano]

Bad CCRM?

 

[Hypnotic818]

Bad CCRM?

I'm thinking so. But I think its bad for the fan only. I jumped pin 17 and pin 14 last night and fan still refused to power on through toggle switch. Guess I'm running switch straight to fan with a relay and inline fuse

 

[Dan_Soprano]

I'm thinking so. But I think its bad for the fan only. I jumped pin 17 and pin 14 last night and fan still refused to power on through toggle switch. Guess I'm running switch straight to fan with a relay and inline fuse

That's one way to do it...... LMAO

 

[Hypnotic818]

That's one way to do it...... LMAO

Lmao tired of the fan dying bc fords crap design system for our cars

 

[jozsefsz]

Our cars are 23-24 years old, I wouldn't call a malfunctioning electrical component that old to be a design problem. Though of course the CCRM itself is a scam - instead of individual, cheap relays, bundle them all into one proprietary, expensive unit.

The fact that the original motor and harness burned up tells me the car was never taken in for the recall that put a breaker in place back in the late 90's. If the fan shorted and melted the relay contacts, you can blame it on whoever owned the car in the 90's and didn't bother with a 30 minute recall appointment. Thankfully the car didn't burn up (that's why they did the recalls in the first place).

Bypassing the CCRM internal relay with an external one(s) (plural because of the two-speed fan operation) isn't a bad exercise for someone who has a wiring diagram and a little wiring / relay know-how, which allows it to continue to be controlled by the ECM (via its ground signal).

 

[Hypnotic818]

Our cars are 23-24 years old, I wouldn't call a malfunctioning electrical component that old to be a design problem. Though of course the CCRM itself is a scam - instead of individual, cheap relays, bundle them all into one proprietary, expensive unit.

The fact that the original motor and harness burned up tells me the car was never taken in for the recall that put a breaker in place back in the late 90's. If the fan shorted and melted the relay contacts, you can blame it on whoever owned the car in the 90's and didn't bother with a 30 minute recall appointment. Thankfully the car didn't burn up (that's why they did the recalls in the first place).

Bypassing the CCRM internal relay with an external one(s) (plural because of the two-speed fan operation) isn't a bad exercise for someone who has a wiring diagram and a little wiring / relay know-how, which allows it to continue to be controlled by the ECM (via its ground signal).

Yeah the car was never taken in for the recall so I guess I should blame the 90's owner instead of ford lol. Burn the pigtail, melted the contacts on the pigtail and now the CCRM is dead for the fan lol

I got the fan all hooked up but I can't figure out where to run the inline fuse. I tried battery to switch and it popped the fuse. I was thinking fan to switch is where I should run the inline fuse? And I didn't use the relay due to autozone couldn't tell me a basic wiring for it

EDIT: Got the inline fuse to work on the battery side. But it every time I flip the switch it blows the 30 amp inline fuse Should I get a higher amp size or is something else wrong?

 

[Dan_Soprano]

You HAVE to run a relay for the fan. The fan draws alot of current, and you will more then likely melt / fry the switch you are using.

 

[Hypnotic818]

You HAVE to run a relay for the fan. The fan draws alot of current, and you will more then likely melt / fry the switch you are using.

Would you know how to wire the relay into the switch? I'm not the best at wiring lol. I can splice and electrical tape it but that's it really lmao

 

[General karthief]

If you are going to wire in a relay, and I know you will, right? You need to get a soldering device and learn to use it, butt connectors are ok but not for high amperage devices like relays and they look like amateur crap.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...fan-relay-schematic-circuit-breaker-added.jpg

 

[Hypnotic818]

What is a circuit breaker from battery? and 12v fused? And I can solder no worries

 

[Dan_Soprano]

What is a circuit breaker from battery? and 12v fused? And I can solder no worries

Both fused wires. A fuse is a type of circuit break. A maxi fuse (like the kind you use for a car audio amp) will work fine for the main power line for the fan. A regular mini fuse for the control power.

 

[Hypnotic818]

Would a inline fuse from battery to relay work fine?

 

[Dan_Soprano]

This may make more sense...

 

[Hypnotic818]

Alright I got it all wired up but the relay just beeps Any ideas?

 

[Dan_Soprano]

Beep??!! Ok then. That's a first for me. Should make a "click" when control circuit is energized. Something is either wired wrong or the relay is bad....

 

[Hypnotic818]

Beep??!! Ok then. That's a first for me. Should make a "click" when control circuit is energized. Something is either wired wrong or the relay is bad....

GOOD NEWS. I got the fan working. Bad news started the car and the fuse in the inline blew out

I was using 87a to power my 3 prong switch with led so that's why it wasn't working. I hooked up a wire from battery straight to switch and pulled the wire from 87a and the fan booted up. Should I run another inline fuse to switch power? Or would I be able to splice a 18g wire into inline fuse/relay wire?(if that makes sense).

 

[Hypnotic818]

This may make more sense...

If anyone every comes across this follow this picture for wiring BUT remove the inline fuse. For some reason no matter what you do it'll blow the 30amp fuse non stop. I let the fan sit on for 30 mins with car running and no inline fuse while I was checking for smoke from fan motor, burning wires on relay/fan/battery/switch and there was nothing going wrong. If the fan motor pulls to much power the relay should stop the connection till the voltage drops or w.e I read about relays lol.

But thanks Dan for the help with the schematic! And everyone else who's helped me with this!

 

[jozsefsz]

Pretty sure the stock fan fuse is 60A which would explain why you're blowing the 30A fuse.
I'd put one in the circuit to keep from melting your wires should something short. And make sure the wires and relay are rated high enough for 60A @ 12V.

The relay will eventually sacrifice itself (by melting its terminals off) if there's too much current. That's not reliable protection though, and it won't get better after the current drops, you'll need a new one.

 

[Hypnotic818]

Pretty sure the stock fan fuse is 60A which would explain why you're blowing the 30A fuse.
I'd put one in the circuit to keep from melting your wires should something short. And make sure the wires and relay are rated high enough for 60A @ 12V.

The relay will eventually sacrifice itself (by melting its terminals off) if there's too much current. That's not reliable protection though, and it won't get better after the current drops, you'll need a new one.

Everyone told me 30a Okay I shall get a bigger inline fuse with a 60a and set it up that way! I don't want anything melting lmao. Thanks for the tip