I have a 95 an I just got done getting together the motor 40 over e303 cam gt40p heads and upper and lower intake the computer is the 94/95 cobra computer the motor is completely fresh if I get it to start it pops thru exhaust and can't get it to idle I have checked plug wires and timing bout 25 times and it's all as it should be I used a manual to put the motor together as factory specs if been going thru this for a week now and I'm stumped any helps appreciated
95 Sn Gt Need Help
- Thread starter Greg95stANG
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Dan_Soprano
Mod Dude
It sounds like the classic "distributor is 180 degrees out" to me... Pull the distributor back out, pull the passenger side valve cover as well as the #1 spark plug. Next, pull the motor over until the rocker arm closest to you (#1 intake valve ) begins to move. At this point put a long thin screw driver in the plug hole and slowly turn the motor over. As the piston comes up the screwdriver will start moving out. Like I said go slow and make sure the screw driver doesn't wedge between the piston, cylinder wall, and plug hole. If you have the factory balancer and timing pointer keep an eye on it as the #1 piston nears the top. When the pointer reaches "0", you are at Top Dead Center on the intake stroke. Leave it there, reinsert the distributor with the rotor pointing exactly at the #1 plug post. This is a crude way of doing it but will work.
Dan_Soprano
Mod Dude
OK its not that it also noticed that if I take the battery out go the next couple days and then try and start it it will start idle and red perfect except for pop in exhaust but after I turn it off will not run and idle again just start and die out then take battery out for a day and it will do it all over again
I read your post again, if this is a rebuilt engine, you may need to revisit some things, first verify the valves are adjusted correctly, the adjustment will depend on what rockers your using. Also what is your timing set at, and what is your fuel pressure reading.
Tim
The fuel pressure is 35 at idle and goes up with throttle rocker arms are stock turqed 20ft and did the m on firing order web tightens them the timing is dead on zero on chain and harmonic valence and the rotor button points to the center of intake right one one the firing order I have ran on it is the ho starts off 13 if checked timing over and over again is it possible computer be trashed and it throws no codes
Wow, proof read your posts, somethings are hard to understand, rocker arm torque sounds ok as long as they are stock. Fuel pressure is good in my opinion.
Check timing with spout removed?
You stated 'no codes', you should get a code 11 koeo, if you get 'no codes', meaning your cel does not flash you have a computer/wiring problem.
You may also have a massive vacuum leak.
It may also help you to look over the cranks but no start checklist in the 5.0 tech thread/how to forum
Check timing with spout removed?
You stated 'no codes', you should get a code 11 koeo, if you get 'no codes', meaning your cel does not flash you have a computer/wiring problem.
You may also have a massive vacuum leak.
It may also help you to look over the cranks but no start checklist in the 5.0 tech thread/how to forum
Sorry at work and OK the cam when I put it in the marking for it at 6 o'clock crank key way at 12 o'clock the check engine light does work but it's not throwing a light but doesn't mean no codes I don't have an obd1 tester and what is the spout
Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.
Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs
Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.
Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.
Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.
Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.
If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.[/B]
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.
WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.
What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems
Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10
Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, seeActron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see www.midwayautosupply.com/Equus-Digital-Ford-Code-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader 3145.
It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $22-$36.
#1Jan 27, 2016
Last edited: Jul 13, 2016
Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs
Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.
Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.
Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.
Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.
If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.
WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.
What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems
Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10
Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, seeActron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see www.midwayautosupply.com/Equus-Digital-Ford-Code-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader 3145.
It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $22-$36.
#1Jan 27, 2016
Last edited: Jul 13, 2016
OK I no what the spout is and it is located on my passenger fender and no I have not disconnected it and tried to start it should I?Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.
Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs
Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.
Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.
Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.
Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.
If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.[/B]
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.
WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.
What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems
Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10
Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, seeActron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see www.midwayautosupply.com/Equus-Digital-Ford-Code-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader 3145.
It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $22-$36.
#1Jan 27, 2016
Last edited: Jul 13, 2016
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...row-click-topright-35-76_aa240_sh20_ou01_.jpg
Click the link, passenger shock tower by air filer box, you have to unplug the gray plasic plug, start the car, set timing at 12 degrees, turn off engine, plug back in, some people say to disconnect the battery for a few minutes, I don't know if that does any good but it will erase any codes and allow the computer a fresh starting point, make sure the car is warmed up before adjusting timing and let it run for a few minutes after disconnecting battery.
Click the link, passenger shock tower by air filer box, you have to unplug the gray plasic plug, start the car, set timing at 12 degrees, turn off engine, plug back in, some people say to disconnect the battery for a few minutes, I don't know if that does any good but it will erase any codes and allow the computer a fresh starting point, make sure the car is warmed up before adjusting timing and let it run for a few minutes after disconnecting battery.
Similar threads
