Drivetrain Clutch Issues With Pictures

AUBURN1111

Founding Member
Oct 17, 2000
560
20
49
Mobile, AL
IMG_5529.JPG
IMG_5528.JPG
Installed a new clutch and pressure plate, while installing the transmission I noticed that even with the clutch cable tightened all the way the clutch fork is hitting the bell housing prior to releasing the clutch. Its not my first clutch install on this car and Ive never had an issue.
IMG_5529.JPG
IMG_5528.JPG
IMG_5529.JPG IMG_5528.JPG IMG_5529.JPG IMG_5528.JPG
1992 5.0L, OEM replacement from Autozone.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


What clutch did you buy? That diaphragm spring doesn't look right to me either. Looks to flat, like the clutch is in it's released position already.
 
Help for those who have replaced the clutch assembly and are still having problems with adjustment:
The next step doesn't make much sense it you already have the transmission installed, but just for sake of discussion, here it is:
The throwout bearing sits in the clutch fork arm with the wave springs pressing on the rear flange of the throwout bearing.

?temp_hash=3b781a008f68f70d0bde9d6310e08fdb.gif


Major differences between the distance between the flywheel surface and the clutch fingers may require tinkering with the clutch fork pivot ball. Stack your old pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel up like they were when installed in the car. Tighten down all the pressure plate bolts and measure the distance between the clutch fingertips and the flywheel face.
Too much thickness will cause the clutch fork arm to sit too far back to get the clutch cable on the quadrant. It may even sit against the rear or the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm. In that case, reduce the pivot ball height.
Too little thickness will cause the clutch fork arm to sit too far forward and bottom out against the front side of the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm.. This will prevent the clutch from fully disengaging.
In other words, the clutch fork arm should sit positioned midway or a little towards the rear in the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm when the cable is properly tensioned.
 
What clutch did you buy? That diaphragm spring doesn't look right to me either. Looks to flat, like the clutch is in it's released position already.

Looks like that to me also. Here's a picture of a clutch on LMRs site and you can see how high the fingers are raised on the pressure plate compared to the ones in OPs picture

ram-88794_451a5dbe.jpg
 
First impression....the fingers were "off" as well. Looks like they are already pressed in. With the pressure plate bolted down, the fingers usually spread outwards away from the flywheel as you suck down the bolts. Did you see this happen?
 
Thanks for that link, I'm wondering if the disk is not compatible with the pressure plate. You can only install the disk one way when I flipped it around it would not sit flush against the flywheel. How much of a gap should i see when placing the pressure plate on the dowel pins with no bolts, I was showing about 1/4" prior to tightening it down?