04 Ford Mustang Gt 4.6l Sohc

Paul420stang

New Member
Jun 24, 2017
6
0
1
hi I have a 2004 Ford Mustang! I bought it just under a year ago with 126xxx km and was a rebuilt status. First few months I had it throw me a code saying that my car wasn't up to operating temperature ! I asked a friend said will be fine as long as isn't over heating. Then beginning of winter going to park it got stuck in snow and it started to get hot there was ice in my cooling fan which caused fuze to blow!! Then one day about a month ago I stopped at the store left car running with ac on when I came out my friend said he saw steam. So I checked under hood and it was boiling over, had problems doing city driving would start to get hot almost over heat, but on highway it would drop down. So I replaced thermostat and temperature sensor on my car , filled it back up burped the system, started it up , let it get up to normal ideling , and the fan would kick in when gets to hot!! Then I took it for a drive about a 6 km drive round trip . Got home stop the car left it ideling it stayed at normal, then started to creep up a little bit then I heard a whistle and started spitting it back at me!! My oil seems to be ok, and when I drained it. It looked rusty, I'm pretty confident it's not a head gasket from reasearch I did, but could be wrong ! If anyone can help me out with this that would be great, thanks
 
  • Sponsors (?)


If this were my car the first test I would do is to confirm that the cooling fan actually works on BOTH speeds when powered directly from battery using a jumper wire. There should be an obvious speed difference between high speed and low speed. For the GT, correct operation really requires both speeds work.

Note, just in case it comes up as a question. For the GT, when the AC is on the cooling fan runs on low speed (yes that is correct). If the low speed isn't able to keep the motor cool then the high speed fan kicks on. So do you see how a failed high speed fan could "appear" that the fan is working when in fact it is not?
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
If this were my car the first test I would do is to confirm that the cooling fan actually works on BOTH speeds when powered directly from battery using a jumper wire. There should be an obvious speed difference between high speed and low speed. For the GT, correct operation really requires both speeds work.

Note, just in case it comes up as a question. For the GT, when the AC is on the cooling fan runs on low speed (yes that is correct). If the low speed isn't able to keep the motor cool then the high speed fan kicks on. So do you see how a failed high speed fan could "appear" that the fan is working when in fact it is not?
I ended up running it again after filling it up and ac is actually working and cooling fan comes on at times, and I notice times it does come on it is at a low speed.. and as for the testing the fan can you explain in a bit of detail home I would do it. Ex, which connector to jump from? Which wire is the correct colour to put the power to? Any and all help is appreciated!
 
and as for the testing the fan can you explain in a bit of detail home I would do it. Ex, which connector to jump from?
The car's battery.
Which wire is the correct colour to put the power to? Any and all help is appreciated!
When you disconnect the fan connector there will be three wires. One is black. This is ground. The other two are for low speed and high speed.

Also spin the fan by hand. Does it spin freely? If not suspect bad bearings.
 
If this were my car the first test I would do is to confirm that the cooling fan actually works on BOTH speeds when powered directly from battery using a jumper wire. There should be an obvious speed difference between high speed and low speed. For the GT, correct operation really requires both speeds work.

Note, just in case it comes up as a question. For the GT, when the AC is on the cooling fan runs on low speed (yes that is correct). If the low speed isn't able to keep the motor cool then the high speed fan kicks on. So do you see how a failed high speed fan could "appear" that the fan is working when in fact it is not?
Hi so I did the test you recommend and the fan only turns on when I put power to the one wire and nothing to the other.. so recommend getting a new cooling fan and trying that before anything ??
 
There maybe other problems with your system but IF the fan doesn't run directly from battery on both speeds, then the PCM can't control the fan either. Assuming that you did the test correctly and that the connector itself isn't heat damaged (you would have mentioned that right?) the only reasonable next step is a new fan.

Once the new fan has been confirmed to work on both speeds we start all of the tests over. Suspect there will be different results this time.
 
Well I took your advice ordered a new fan assembly put it in last night then this morning I took it out for a drive got it up to normal!! And let it sit ideling for about 15 min and gotta a little above the middle of normal,, and then the cooling fan kicked in immediately !! Give it a couple days see how it runs and if I have anymore issues! I'll post again!! Thank you for your help