High Flow Fuel Pump Upgrade Options For S197 3v

metroplex

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Sep 7, 2003
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SE MI
What high flow drop-in replacement fuel pumps are available for the 05-09 S197 GTs? I see that most blower kits include a fuel pump that requires cutting/splicing the stock wiring harness to slip in the replacement, or to have a piggyback fuel pump. I'd rather much just swap out the entire basket/float assembly like I see with the OE replacement pumps. Is there such a replacement available? I don't want to get the GT500 dual-pump replacement kit from FRPP because A). It's $800 B). I won't need that much fuel capacity. I see a few Walbro's available that *might* work, but will these require a new tune? What about long-term reliability? E85 compatibility?

I'm planning to install a Procharger P-1 HO kit on my 07 GT and everything about it seems easy to install, except I'm not comfortable with ghetto rigging the fuel pump. If I am taking the time to pull out the rear seat and stock pump assembly, I want to get a direct-fit/drop-in fuel pump replacement. I prefer not to cut/splice/solder in a fuel pump. Doing some math, the stock 3V only handles about 525 hp, so that's about 60 lb/min max airflow. With E10 93 octane at 0.8 lambda, we're talking about a pump that needs to flow 6.3 lb/min with a 15% safety factor, so 56.7 gal/h or about 214 lph. Is there a quality/reliable drop-in complete fuel pump replacement that would fit this requirement? Would it require a new tune for the fuel pump?
 
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The first thing that comes to mind is a boost-a-pump. Yes, you have to wire it in but it's simple. You use it to first, set the voltage on the pump. Yes, it will over-drive the stock pump without causing additional wear and tear. It also regulates the pump and ensures both stable voltage and available current to the pump (no surges).

This is just as important as replacing the pumps as larger demands will be placed on the electrical system.

As far as pumps specifically, pick your poison:

https://www.lethalperformance.com/f...09-mustang-gt/fuel-delivery/fuel-pumps/walbro

Buy the pump that's adequate for the HP level you're shooting for and not the largest pump that you can find.
 
How do I know how much to adjust the boost-a-pump with the stock pump? How much overdriving is too much on the stock pump? I think I'll need twice as much flow as stock if the stock is truly 110 lph!

If I go to an aftermarket pump like a Walbro 255, will I need to retune the fuel pump settings (gains, voltage table, etc...)?
 
How do I know how much to adjust the boost-a-pump with the stock pump? How much overdriving is too much on the stock pump? I think I'll need twice as much flow as stock if the stock is truly 110 lph!

If I go to an aftermarket pump like a Walbro 255, will I need to retune the fuel pump settings (gains, voltage table, etc...)?

It won't let you over-drive the pump, so to speak. The available ranges on a boost-a-pump are safe ones.

How much is adequate depends totally on your fuel demands. You need to know what power range you reasonably expect to achieve.

Download this article and read it through:
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/resources/fuel-flow-forensics.55/

Once you have the basics, we can try and figure out what your plans are and pick a pump that's 'just' larger than you need. From there, your tuner can adjust the voltage of the boost-a-pump (BAP) to ensure that you're getting adequate fuel. The thing with the BAP is that even if you leave it set to zero, it will still regulate power to the pump and expand it's overall life.

To answer a question you asked in your first post:

Yes... It will require a tune. It would be foolish to make a major power change and not tune it ensure it all stays put together.
 
I already roughly know what flow rate I need, 214 lph, to support roughly 550-600 hp. I'm hearing conflicting data on how much the stock 3V pumps flow. Some say 110 lph, some say 4 lb/min, others say that Ford used the SVT Focus pump at the factory. The Shelby GT (which is supposed to be the same car as a regular GT with other Shelby stuff thrown on) shows a much higher stock flow rate in their calibration. So I'm really confused as to what we're starting with. I have a hard time believing Ford gave us a 110 lph pump for the 300 hp 3V, when the article you posted showed the 2V GT's getting one that flows 158 lph.

And I was asking about a tune specifically for the fuel pump,not the rest of the power adder!
Meaning, if I installed a Walbro 255 lph (as an example), just by itself, will I need to tune it for that new pump (not concerned about the power adder in this scenario)? A BAP won't require tweaking the fuel pump settings in the tune?
 
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I installed the new DW300 and it was fairly drop-in except the stock strainer refused to come off, and left the metal ring on the stock pump. I couldn't quite get the strainer to fit, and managed to nick the element a little. I couldn't find a replacement strainer in time, so I slapped the old one on and will swap it out for a Carter replacement once it arrives.

I noticed that 99% of the time, the DW300 sounds/feels just like stock... but this afternoon I did a hot restart (stopped by a grocery store to drop off bottle deposits thanks to idiotic MI bottle laws) and heard what seemed to me like the pump priming itself but it was much louder than the normal priming sound, more like a LOT of gurgling/humming. I was never able to reproduce that sound again.
 
You use less fuel during a warm start. In your case, that may be the result of the regulator stopping the flow of fuel.

Keep an ear on it and see that it stays consistent.