Progress Thread Gumby Dd

Gumbytex

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Feb 20, 2018
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Hello everyone!

Finally bought one of my dream cars, a 1993 Notchback! I'm using it with the stock 2.3L as a daily driver right now and trying to keep it stock for the most part for awhile. Perhaps a V8 swap is in the future but right now my project is my 1989 Jeep Comanche, build thread here if you are interested.
https://comancheclub.com/topic/42498-gumby-build/?page=7

I have been tracking down why it is running rough as it wasn't taken care of before. New plugs and wires as well as a new thermostat and coolant flush just to start out. The old plugs looked good and the compression numbers were 1: 131/170psi, 2: 155/150psi, 3: 100/60psi, and 4: 145/150psi. Looks like #3 will be my main problem although I suspect a poor seal at the fuel injector. Also check engine codes are 172-LeanB1, 332-EGR Valve, and 452-Speed Sensor. Lean I suspect is just old fuel injectors combined with the stuck EGR valve. I have a block off plate coming in this week along with the harness cap. Finally I think the speed sensor is fine but the cable isn't turning because the speedo isn't even fluttering. Much more to check out in the future!

The car has fresh paint which was one of its main selling points. Also has shaved trunk lock and procar seats, although with the wrong brackets so they sit weird.

Now for some pics,

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Thanks! I just got the EGR system off and blocked. Runs like a dream now!! Absolutely do this to your 2.3l if you haven't already. Bought the block off plate and gasket, plug harness adapter, and plugged the vacuum line and exhaust header bung.
Also, when replacing your thermostat be sure to twist the thermostat into the housing so it locks in place. Also I used RTV thermostat housing sealer with a new felpro gasket and it finally stopped leaking.
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Got the A/C fixed. The knob had cracked and wasn't actually turning the temperature control cable. Swapped the knob with the blower and works great! Installed the correct 21 tooth speedo gear and now have a working speedometer. Picture is of the old one which appears to be out of an auto trans?

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While under I noticed there is an extra plug attached to the vehicle speed sensor harness, anyone know what that is for? See picture below.

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Finally, I found out the previous owner replaced the "dog bone" steel cable that links the clutch fork to the linkage with a threaded rod and some nuts. It had worked loose and I couldn't actuate the clutch. Tightened it back down and good as new. If anyone knows where to find a bellhousing clutch fork boot let me know! New steering rack, fuel injectors, and some more cleaning coming up.
 

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I bought an AGR 15:1 rack but it has yet to come in. Also, inner shift boot has been replaced which helped alot with rd noise. The clutch boot on the 2.3l is actually a boot, 5.0 is the metal cover. Still no idea what that plug by the speedo sensor is?

I painted the wheels in prep for cars and coffee this coming weekend. Super happy with how they turned out.

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I found the o2 sensor was unplugged and intentionally taped off by the previous owner. Not sure why? Plugged back in and car runs like a dream with lots of power when warmed up!! Eliminated my check engine light too. Only thing is when first started it bogs down and backfires really bad under acceleration in 1st. After warms up its fine. Any ideas?

I've started running gumout fuel cleaner with every tank because I'm getting some knocking at certain rpms with large throttle inputs. More research will continue
 
The plug by your speedo sensor is for the cruise control. I saw the wiring connection for it laying on the transmission cross member in one of your other pictures.

The O2 sensor is probably bad. Unplugging it put the ECM in permanent open loop. Now that you plugged it back in the car is going into closed loop. The bad sensor is probably taking a while to start switching properly hence it running poor when colder. Just replace it. They are cheap.
 
Dan02gt, spot on with the o2 sensor. It was bad and I replaced it. Runs great cold start and warm now!

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Got a factory radio from the junk yard and installed it. Took a while to figure out where the plugs to by pass the premium audio amp were but eventually got it.

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New radiator installed as the old one had sprung a bad leak.

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Timing belt installed too as I was worried it had jumped a tooth. It hadnt, but still glad I did it. On this engine the harmonic balancer was pressed on and I needed a puller just fyi because I've seen some that slide off.

Finally my biggest problem I have now is what sounds like knock and I need some help. It became worse after I removed and blocked the egr system and got a new o2 sensor. No check engine light as I got the jump plug for the egr port. Spark plugs And wires are new and I'm running gumout with every tank. Compression check numbers are in one of my earlier posts and looked ok.

Symptoms. Rattling / knock sound between 2000 and 3000 rpm at 50-90% throttle under load. Won't knock when reved at idle or under wide open throttle under accel. I think it has to do with the engine mapping since the EGR is off and it doesn't knock at wot. My thought is the map isn't giving it enough fuel combined with old injectors and deposits. My next step is new perhaps higher flow injectors. Any thoughts?
 
Unplugged the maf and found it runs with no knock. Naturally I thought the maf was bad so I bought a new one only to find replacing it had no effect. All I know is removing the o2 or maf from the system puts it into limp mode or closed loop and keeps it out of open loop which has been leaning the engine out too much. I no longer think it is a fuel delivery issue but now think it is an engine af ratio issue. Thoughts?
 
Have you tried to pull codes?

If it's spark knock it either doesn't have enough fuel or has to much timing. I don't think the timing is adjustable on the version of the 2.3L you have so I would look for something causing it to run lean.

When was the fuel filter replaced last? You should also verify the fuel pressure. Other possibilities are the air intake temperature sensors and the coolant temperature sensor. If either are bad that can throw the air/fuel off.

You should be able find resistance charts on Google to help you test them.
 
Removing the EGR might have caused that knock. I'm not sure on the 2.3, but on the 5.0 it opens up at part throttle and is fully closed at WOT. The computer adds timing when the EGR is open.
 
Knock update. After about a week of the new maf the knock had slowed down quite a bit so I decided to try 93 octane. Now no knock at all, any temp, any load and throttle input. I know 93 is only a bandaid but for now it works. Thanks for the help everyone. I'm going to be checking the fuel pressure and a few more sensors along the way. I so suspect the EGR but it's not going back on lol

Finally more good news. Got the AGR rack installed. First impressions, packaged really well but one pressure line was slightly bent from shipping, easy fix. Came with nylon rings for the fittings. Got new MOOG outer tierod ends too. The bushings that came with didn't fit the compression sleeves or bolts so I removed them and used only the sleeves.

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Fit like a dream and drives amazing. 2.5 turns lock to lock and extremely responsive. Force to turn is lighter than stock but very firm and quick. Love it! Great upgrade.

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Got some cobra wheels for a steal. $500 for all 4. Goodyear eagle f1 gs 245/50z r16. 10 years old but were in storage so no dry rot or tread wear. Super excited for cars and coffee Sat!


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