65 Mustang hi-po z bar

[creditguy]

Bought a hi-po a bar from CJ Pony, but it doesn’t appear to clear the exhaust pipe using hi-po exhausts? If I estimated the needed clearance, I’ll looks like it needs another 1.5 inches. Anyone else have this problem?

 

[tos]

I can't speak for the Hypo exhaust but I have Headman 1 5/8" headers and don't have a problem. Do you have the old Z-bar to compare it with? do you have a picture you can post with measurements?

 

[creditguy]

I can't speak for the Hypo exhaust but I have Headman 1 5/8" headers and don't have a problem. Do you have the old Z-bar to compare it with? do you have a picture you can post with measurements?

 

[creditguy]

}Thanks for your reply. My 65 (builtlate July in 65)has 66 engine mounts and as mentioned Hi Po exhaust manifolds; it has a 6 bolt bell housing. The z-bar does not seem to provide enough clearance for the header pipe to be attached once the clutch release rod is attached—I have yet to purchase the 2 inch exhaust pipes. Hence, what appears to be the need for clutch release bar connection on the z bar to be about 1.5 inches closer to the engine. Samples of the original z bar and the Hi Po version can easily be found on parts sites such as C J Pony. In all my searching, I haven’t found anyone else having this problem.

 

[GOvert]

your clutch fork looks really short and the Z-bar lower arm needs to be over to the left almost touching the steering box
a truck clutch fork would be a few inches longer

 

[creditguy]

your clutch fork looks really short and the Z-bar lower arm needs to be over to the left almost touching the steering box
a truck clutch fork would be a few inches longer

your clutch fork looks really short and the Z-bar lower arm needs to be over to the left almost touching the steering box
a truck clutch fork would be a few inches longer

 

[creditguy]

Interesting thought; however, do you have any suggestions for a Z-bar that would accommodate this approach. All the parts resources that I have used do not seem to have such a animal for a Mustang with a 289. Thanks.

 

[GOvert]

After I replied, I looked too and couldn't find a clear "off the shelf" answer. The truck fork is for an 11 " flywheel so I don't know if the fork "fulcrum point" would be in the correct spot. At this point, If it were me, since you have what you have, I would extend the fork with the same thickness of material and cut the lower arm off of the z-bar and find a location on the pivot pipe that would work. If you weld are know someone it should be do-able. I looked at your pictures several times and it's clear that what you have won't work as it is.

 

[tos]

You may have several issues here. Its kinda hard to see but it looks like the lower arm isn't even inline with your clutch fork in the third picture. There also appears to be too much gap from your eng block to the zbar tube where your felt washer is. I'm not sure that the big metal washer should be there? Ill have to look at mine tonight. Regardless though it looks shoved to the drivers side too far.
Try it without the metal washer and see if you can get it to sit closer to the block. If you have a torch you can heat one or both of the bends in the lower arm to tweek it but do this as a last resort and only if its not a huge amount.

 

[GOvert]

Tos, I think you're right. The washer should be against the block and Now I remember the Z-bar tube .went all the way over not just the pivot ball but the hex of that stud too. The pipe of the z-bar was snug against the washer. I remember that the bracket on top of the frame rail was slid all of the way to the right. And you are correct too, that he may have to heat and tweak the lower arm of the z-bar to the right.

 

[creditguy]

You may have several issues here. Its kinda hard to see but it looks like the lower arm isn't even inline with your clutch fork in the third picture. There also appears to be too much gap from your eng block to the zbar tube where your felt washer is. I'm not sure that the big metal washer should be there? Ill have to look at mine tonight. Regardless though it looks shoved to the drivers side too far.
Try it without the metal washer and see if you can get it to sit closer to the block. If you have a torch you can heat one or both of the bends in the lower arm to tweek it but do this as a last resort and only if its not a huge amount.

You may have several issues here. Its kinda hard to see but it looks like the lower arm isn't even inline with your clutch fork in the third picture. There also appears to be too much gap from your eng block to the zbar tube where your felt washer is. I'm not sure that the big metal washer should be there? Ill have to look at mine tonight. Regardless though it looks shoved to the drivers side too far.
Try it without the metal washer and see if you can get it to sit closer to the block. If you have a torch you can heat one or both of the bends in the lower arm to tweek it but do this as a last resort and only if its not a huge amount.

tos, thank you. I think you have hit the nail on the head. Give me some direction. The metal washer that was used is single Scott Drake pierce that screws into the engine block with the other end supports the z bar. Should I customize the felt washer in order reduce its size or in combination is there an alternative to the metal washer piece? Bending the z bar arm is still highly likely and would align the clutch release rod better to the clutch release arm.

 

[creditguy]

Tos, I think you're right. The washer should be against the block and Now I remember the Z-bar tube .went all the way over not just the pivot ball but the hex of that stud too. The pipe of the z-bar was snug against the washer. I remember that the bracket on top of the frame rail was slid all of the way to the right. And you are correct too, that he may have to heat and tweak the lower arm of the z-bar to the right.

Thanks GOvert. Think tos has a simplier approach. I appreciate your thoughts.

 

[creditguy]

tos, thank you. I think you have hit the nail on the head. Give me some direction. The metal washer that was used is single Scott Drake pierce that screws into the engine block with the other end supports the z bar. Should I customize the felt washer in order reduce its size or in combination is there an alternative to the metal washer piece? Bending the z bar arm is still highly likely and would align the clutch release rod better to the clutch release arm.

tos, thank you. I think you have hit the nail on the head. Give me some direction. The metal washer that was used is single Scott Drake pierce that screws into the engine block with the other end supports the z bar. Should I customize the felt washer in order reduce its size or in combination is there an alternative to the metal washer piece? Bending the z bar arm is still highly likely and would align the clutch release rod better to the clutch release arm.

tos - I am wrong about the z bar engine mount. I used the original mount and added a metal washer. I replaced it would the Scott Drake version which has a small bolt fitting which allows the felt bushing to fit over it and the metal washer is between the bolt fitting and engine. After this conversion, the z bar shifted toward closer to the engine and allowed more room for the exhaust header pipe although I think the z bar will still have be bent to allow good clearance. Thank you - you were dead on.

 

[GOvert]

Your welcome. Post some updated pics after your adjustments. Thanks