Build Thread Dusty is at it again...

#941
I hate bent up pinch rails. If I ever catch a guy having his mustang on the pinch rail I'm going to giv'em a fresh can of whoop a$&

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I had to break out the poor man's pinch weld repair kit....
 
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#942
Here's the kit....

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Ther passenger side was worse. The rocker is pushed up about 1/16th in. Came out easy better than it was.

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If I ever get around to it I may get a body shop to put a clamp on it and pull it... but until then... it'll be what it is.
 
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#943
Mine had some of that same fugly Scott. A frame machine sure comes in handy then.

Fact is, I’m going to smooth mine once the jacking rail is welded in too.
 
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#944
Davedacarpainter said:
Mine had some of that same fugly Scott. A frame machine sure comes in handy then.

Fact is, I’m going to smooth mine once the jacking rail is welded in too.
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Your car is coming along pretty good. Those things have been a thorn in my eye for 3 yrs. Almost as much of a pain as my stupid auto correcting dumb phone. Lol
 
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#945
My pinch welds are perfect, but my subframes are all dented up from jacking and jack stands. We'll see how well my sfcs go on when I get to that point. I wish foxes had a good jacking point in the middle of the car from the factory. That would have saved the subframes and pinch welds.
 
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#946
There really are no good jacking points other than the center of the front k member and the center of the rear differential ( but even then you risk bending the cover and causing a leak ).

I plan to put jacking rails on mine when I get the sub frames welded in. At that point it'll be on a frame machine and checked.
 
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#947
This took me over a year to do.... and I'm proud of myself. Finally, the tail pipes are positioned correctly. No pictures of that yet.... but they really sit nice now. I even polished the steel adapters to look like stainless.

I also removed the coil bracket and the tensioner adjuster and painted them.

Had to use a bolt and washers through cardboard to hold the tensioner adjuster thing.

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Worked out well...

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Here are the painted parts. I uses rustoleum primer and satin black rustoleum paint. I've had good luck in the past.

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My brake booster needs to come out so I can prep and paint it. That thing will have to wait for a while.

My dogs got shots this week and my dog had a bad reaction. She couldn't walk for two days. They stuck the needle in her right side thigh. I had to look at this for two days...

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I'm glad she's a chihuahua couldn't imagine having to carry a big dog outside to pee. Roxy is doing a lot better now. Almost back to her old self. I really wanted to go back and punch the vet in her face.... but I didn't.... must be getting old.
 
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#948
The on3 belt adjuster came out great.

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... so did the coil bracket...

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Tail pipe tips finally sit right...

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Now I'm on the hunt for a straight LX rear bumper. The hump in this one is really getting irritating. I already tried removing it and using heat and messaging to fix this thing. Lumps and humps keep coming back. I've thought about glueing aluminum strips to the bottom side to hold it straight. Don't know exactly what to do. I kinda like the wear on the cabernet red and dont really want to have to change colors. Also, I don't really want a fresh painted rear bumper.

The support frame is straight, cleaned, and painted. I'm at wits end about how to make this thing straight.
 
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#949
90sickfox said:
The on3 belt adjuster came out great.

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... so did the coil bracket...

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Tail pipe tips finally sit right...

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Now I'm on the hunt for a straight LX rear bumper. The hump in this one is really getting irritating. I already tried removing it and using heat and messaging to fix this thing. Lumps and humps keep coming back. I've thought about glueing aluminum strips to the bottom side to hold it straight. Don't know exactly what to do. I kinda like the wear on the cabernet red and dont really want to have to change colors. Also, I don't really want a fresh painted rear bumper.

The support frame is straight, cleaned, and painted. I'm at wits end about how to make this thing straight.
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Honestly Scott, it's just that shtty plastic ford used back then. Mine is already getting wavy too. Not quite the "I'm so happy to see you" lump yours has right now, but definitely has a wave.

Mike had mentioned that foam insert once upon a longtime ago. I'll dig that up eventually, I want it to look nice as well.
 
#950
@ davedacarpainter

A guy used to sell something that fit under the rear bumper on Ebay. I haven't seen that thing in a while.
 
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#951
Got something else small done. When I started this thing I used a piston stop and found TDC. Then I used a stock balancer to mark the timing marks using smurf tape. The balance on my car is bigger than stock so I had no real way of telling the timing. Tonite I did this....

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I used a brake micrometer and a metal ruler to get as close as I could to the measurements supplied by MSD. I'll still probably buy a new balancer... but this will allow me to see the marks a little clearer.
 
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#953
90sickfox said:
Got something else small done. When I started this thing I used a piston stop and found TDC. Then I used a stock balancer to mark the timing marks using smurf tape. The balance on my car is bigger than stock so I had no real way of telling the timing. Tonite I did this....

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I used a brake micrometer and a metal ruler to get as close as I could to the measurements supplied by MSD. I'll still probably buy a new balancer... but this will allow me to see the marks a little clearer.
Click to expand...
I'm glad you took a pic of that,...that way you can remember what it looked like after you installed it.

Because it's gonna fling off here in a little bit.

Everytime I tried to use that tape, it flung off the balancer. It didn't matter how clean or smooth I got the surface under the tape. I think I even tried to coat the tape with clear paint so it would act as a membrane to seal it...
Hopefully you'll have better luck.
 
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#956
Guud Stuff rat der!

One other suggestion for your timing tape, since as it has been mentioned, it's probably coming off once the engine starts...take a file or hacksaw blade or a center punch and mark TDC and paint it white or yellow so you can see with a timing light.
 
#957
droopie85gt said:
Guud Stuff rat der!

One other suggestion for your timing tape, since as it has been mentioned, it's probably coming off once the engine starts...take a file or hacksaw blade or a center punch and mark TDC and paint it white or yellow so you can see with a timing light.
Click to expand...


That's what I did...I marked the balancer so I could know where TDC is. The tape has stayed on so far...
 
#958
I did some research and found out that I should be using a vacuum pump with my camshaft. Compared to my old set up ( NA ) with cobra brakes, stock GT booster, and 98 v6 later cylinder, the brakes improved using a 93 cobra booster. I did notice that the pedal is a little hard still. ( I also should be using a cobra master cylinder ) Doesn't surprise me since the most vacuum I've seen at idle is 12in. I contacted Comp and 8in is normal under 1k. at idle.

The interwebs told me that but I wanted info from the company that made the camshaft. They told me this camshaft needs a vacuum pump for a street driven car with my heads and compression.

I'm going to continue tuning this thing. Vacuum pumps aren't expensive, but I want this car back running and driving. Before I tag it a new vacuum pump will be behind my passenger fender.
 
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#959
I edited my post to just this one line below ( the previous one was a downer )....

Please guys....don't be an idiot.
 
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