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it sounds like the distributer is 180 off if I remember right, the injectors get 12v all the time and the pulse comes on the ground side. get a noid light or 194bulb with some jumpers and check pulse while cranking sounds like you are 180 off though

Ive done some interesting mods on a stock upper. definate gains from 3500-5000 but did not raise the powerband like I anticipated,made more power though. this was on a heavily ported stock lower and pretty much stock longblock, full exhaust. it was alot of work but looked stock when I was done

its a pretty simple swap. you should be able to handle it yourself

you can get the nylon one at the dealer

search YouTube - Broadcast Yourself. or Click Click Racing - Click Click Racing

just keep the stock cam. you can make 300hp na with sd and it will run good, 400-450 with n2o or blower

just use the open end of the wrench

you deleted the air pump, but are the thermactor ports open on the back of the heads? do you have the larger revised baffle under the pcv valve? if not its probably consuming oil(they all do)

refer to post #6

when you hear brake stall, they are talking about on a tranny brake, not brake pedal or ebrake if you have a manual valve body, the best way is 3rd gear about 15mph, floor it and whatever it flashes to, thats your stall if you dont have a manual valve body, try 15mph in manual 2

you need more pics

no; not needed

24's are fine with SD with your combo I would back the fuel psi down to 35 or 36

if you dont want to run a spacer, run stock valve covers- remove the baffle and grind the boss out, then double stack valve cover gaskets. works great

you can try bleeding the lines at the abs block, but you may need to energize the selenoids

I agree, what does the plug look like? I'd still be looking in that direction, theres a million things you can still do to figure this out, maybe swap wires w/another cylinder see if you can move it, or test a new plug by resting it on strut tower for ground, than you can see the quality of...

I agree, just do weld in muffs, much cheaper, same outcome, used would be even more of a score next I'd say prochamber, drop in k&n, then maybe pulleys and a plenum would still have some $$$, maybe get some tint or something, or gears if enough left

$35 is to hard to pass up but the jlt actually works and has been dyno proven 5-8rwhp, the only cai that can say that, my car picked up .1 and 1mph, the part I really like is it picks up alot of power after 5500, it flatlines instead of falling off a cliff

bro in laws 01 GT auto, stock except cat back and silencer, 14.4@96 I think I could prolly squeek 14.3 but that is it, my 00 5spd went 13.8@100 very close to stock

at a dyno day this year, a 5.0 w/edelbrock heads, E303 cam, cobra intake and longtubes made 263rwhp out of fresh motor w/about 100miles on it 10min later my stock 4.6 w/shortie headers, prochamber, welded in mufflers laid down 249, STOCK 4.6