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I would do just as your doing, seals and brakes. Also check the front wheel bearings and repack them. Then I would change all the fluids crank it up and let it warm up and check for leaks then drive it around the block and see where your at. If it seems like its doing ok I would drive it down...

Not sure what the cost would be, but it wouldn't be cheap. You would either have to source a good C-4 or get one that is rebuilt or have one you sourced rebuilt. My experience shows that most women would not like a shift kit and higher stall converter (to gain back some of the loss of having an...

Haven't posted much myself. Busy with work, school and family. The 'Stang had to take a back seat. I still Take Mojo out just to knock the cobwebs off. Hopefully in the next year or two I'll be able to start work on her though. Re-install the 4 speed, (C4 installed by Zeek due to right shoulder...

Is the distributor vacuum advance? Check the diaphragm. Also make sure it is hooked up to manifold vacuum. I prefer mine to be hooked up that way. Much easier for me to get the idle satisfactory for me. You will have to re time it. Also check the foat level. Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

It's highly unlikely that you will find a decent Z car for the price you want to pay. And it WILL distract you from your current project. A bike is a solution but may become a distraction as well. You'll need rainsuits, winter gear, bungee nets and the like. Cheap used J car is where its at...

Heads, port match the intake if possible. If not you'll still get more torque and horsepower with the Aussie heads. Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

Maybe you could make a trade for a small block. Too big for an early Mustang. But putting a small block in place of a six is not without its challenges. Frame mounts, motor mounts, throttle linkage, rear end, driveshaft, trans, possible trans mount too. I did a Falcon years ago. Yes the parts...

Passenger side is ported vacuum, so when the throttle is opened it puts vacuum to the distributor. Ser the timing with the hose disconnected at the minimum spec per manual and start from there. Sent from my C6606 using Tapatalk

Seems like to me it would be easier to install an old 8 inch rear end (since it came with V8s).67 and later diff. sections have more webbing. They came with 5lug axles as well. I agree that the T5 would make a noticible difference. Sent from my C6606 using Tapatalk

It was straight forward until I dropped the little spider and the slppers and springs went every where. Its noisy. Tried bleeding it to no avail. But it works. I wasn't able to replace the insert in the control valve at the 3/8 conmection.So it leaks a bit. Sent from my C6606 using Tapatalk

You'll be fine. These engines aren't that delicate. I would definitely use a zinc additive or oil for flat tappet cams hete on out. Sent from my C6606 using Tapatalk

Try a Holley 2010 (like the Autolite 2100 but uses readily available Holley parts) 350 or 500cfm. Or an Autolite 2100 wirh the big venturis. Sent from my C6606 using Tapatalk

Thanks, A bit late on my part too! LOL Wife, Kids, work etc.

I bought a Holley 4180 for around 40 bucks thinking it was an early 60s carb. I looked at it and noticed there was a tag on the carb with a 1986 date code. I think I may have screwed myself out of 40 bucks as my research has indicated that standard Holley primary metering plate will not work...

BTW, get a few books such as Ford Performance by Pat Ganahl. I think he did one on stock V-8s as well.

Headers and dual exhaust. Also a relatively low buck fix is a "straight up' timing gear set . Many of the emission era 302s came from FoMoCo with the gear 4 degrees or so retarded.

I've read and heard that the C4 that came with the 302 had a unique valvebody. Is this true? Seems odd that the MoCo would do that. I'm wanting to install a shift and was curious to what options there are. I know of B&M and TransGo.

I got in touch w/ the previous owner and he seemed to recall that the guy prior to him had them made.

That makes sense. The car was actually an open diff. I remember my Dad telling me something how the PO had one side adjusted different from the other to compensate for having an open diff. I've searced online and found nothing.

Can somebody tell me what kind of traction bars these are and where I can find suitable Rubber bushings. The shaft is 3/4 dia. They were on the car whem my Dad bought it back in 84.