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you can't adjust it but if you can see it bouncing around a lot, chances are its worn and you may need a new one. a while back I replaced the pulley to stop a chirp but it came back in a few months and it was glazed again. turns out the tensioner was worn out

let us know how it holds up. I get a low-rpm buck/hesitation ever so often and i've checked or changed almost everything but the injectors

i actually have a few degrees of play in the steering to either side before any movement happens at the wheels and i hate it. i'm thinking it could be the rack itself

calipers, brackets and rotors are the main pieces but you can re-use your old caliper bolts and hoses. that's basically it if i remember right but you might want to get new crush washers to avoid any leaks

when i first got my car the rear brakes were hardly doing any braking and the pedal was almost hitting the floor. i bled it at the calipers and no change, it wasn't until i bled the rear screw on the m/c when i got full braking back

fwiw i did some datalogging some time back and my f/p slowly got up to 60 psi at idle, indicated pressure at the rail was ~42, at the same time i got a pending code for p0174. with that said, the car often bucks and hesitates and is low on power in the lower rpm range, not to mention it gets...

well i just did the same "bounce test" on my g/f's accord and its definitely more solid mine. what are some decent replacements?

guys, i've been driving the mustang for the first time in a while since my DD is out of commission and i guess i never realized how bad it handled. the rear end is skipping and jumping over rough pavement - more that the typical SRA hop and skip. it also feels like i'm carying a ton of bricks in...

sorry i didn't get back to this. i had taken the car to a couple shops and they came up with nothing, so i did my own research and it pointed to the alt like wmburns said. i went ahead and had it tested and it turns out there was a bad diode in the regulator. a new alt fixed the problem

yea i'm pretty much done cleaning my engine too, the end result always looks something like this

it looks like positive advertising if you ask me, after all, AM notified the c/c company which led to the guy getting busted

do you have any other tips on the install? i've had mine sitting around for months and its about time i put it in. did you have to extend any wires and where did you run the +12V and ground wires?

dammit! i wish i thought of that. looks good man, but be prepared to think twice about every steep driveway. i think that's the only reason i haven't lowered my car yet

special tool? i've done this job a few times before and didn't even know there was a "special tool". visegrips and elbow grease have worked fine for me

maybe they thought you were a creeper trying to sell LIVE cats :D

man you're crazy, how's visibility at night?

i've had p1131 for almost a year now and still can't figure it out, hope you get it fixed

the control arm doesn't look damaged to me. if anything, you need new bushings. installing the ball joints shouldn't be too hard, i have a pair gathering dust but i don't have the press or a pickle fork to do the install

check for fuel pressure, can you hear the pump priming when you turn the key on?

i had a glazed belt and tensioner pulley that squealed like a pig, but i only found it after changing everything else >.< since you already changed every other pulley, it could be the belt itself or even the clutch pulley