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Just to clear things up. the plug wires are always in their correct location. Do not move around the plug wires. If the car is backfiring, then you have the 3 essentials you need to get it running...air, fuel, and spark. Now you just have to get it at the correct timing.

Yes, it could be that far off... Not sure about the regulator you talk about, I don't have that regulator anymore. My car is updated with EFI and a new wiring harness...

Not sure what you mean there, but the dampner bolt should be around a 15/16 head on it and in the center of the dampner, of course. If you are talking about the key that is set in a groove in the crank and is used to keep the balancer in the correct position is broke off, then don't bother...

Turn it with a ratchet and socket clockwise attached to the balancer bolt... You can use a pinky to find TDC if you are careful... You will still probably be a couple of degrees off, but that can get you close...

BTW, if your timing is off enough, it will also back fire... Need that pointer... :)

LOL, that sucks... I was just there from 6/7-6/13 in Minneapolis/Plymouth...

Yes, you will have to lift the distributor out enough (an inch or two) to rotate the rotor 180 and then stab it back in. Make sure the oil pump shaft does not come out. If you were close enough, I would come and do it for you...

You NEED to have some way to see where your timing is, you need a pointer! If your valves are not adjusted correct, the car will not run. Where are you located?

I am located at the southern edge of Austin off of Brodie, a good drive from where you are...

There are 2 TDC, one on the firing and one on the exhaust cycle. Move it 180 degrees by pulling the distributor and moving the rotor of it 180 degrees while keeping the body of the distributor in the same place. Are you using a 302 or a 351/5.0 firing order?

Pull the distributor and re-install it 180 degrees. Sounds like you could have it at the wrong TDC.

I bought the disc/disc setup from mustangsteve.com using a 2000 V6 master, but I haven't driven the car yet. I am also using the new Wilwood combination distribution/proportioning valve in one. The only issue I have found is that the MC uses different threads than the rest of the system.

Is the trans throwing fluid onto the exhaust? Is it trans fluid that got on the exhaust when you changed the pan? Where is the smoke coming from?

If you already have a 8.8 in the car, it is not even worth switching to a 9 inch. The 8.8 is plenty strong enough, uses less horsepower, and still has many options/upgrades that can enhance it.

It is time to move on... You just happen to be in luck though, I happen to have room in my garage for another Mustang... :) Keep it and turn up the boost...

I'll put a test light to it and try to figure it out...

That is a nice diagram, but it doesn't really help... I'm using a 65 Ignition switch... Is there supposed to be a terminal on the ignition switch that would work?

How is a good way to wire the EEC power since it needs 12v power in run and start? If using a relay, what is used to activate the relay? Thank you, John

What, I have air shocks on my car with a 347/Vortech combo! How can they be bad? j/k I am looking for a good rear suspension to handle the power and fit a good size tire though... Has anyone done a mini-tub on a fastback and still kept the rear seat?

I'll see if I can find a video. It has a MII front with I believe a mini-tub rear, not sure of the rear suspension though...