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I found some black caps at the local hardware store that cover the windshield wiper shafts nicely. I don't have a great pic, but here's a recent image where you can see the wiper shafts covered by caps.

Amazing work. Nice job... it must feel great to drive it again. One question/comment... is that the final position of the rear wing? I think it might look better if it were more horizontal. Whatever the case, you should be damn proud of your build!!!

I wanted to retain the key for security reasons. Isn't it best to have to retain some sort of keyed switch? To energize the start push button, you have to switch key to "run". If there's no key, anyone could jump in the car and push the start button and go. I installed the push button in...

That's correct. My valance was designed to accept a stock bumper, and the round holes are for the parking lights. However, I wanted air ducts for the front brakes. So I had the body shop cut those rectangular holes at the valance crease. Then, I fabricated a couple of fiberglass scoops...

I thought it look familiar. I've got a Maier valance that accepts a bumper, but the final product hasn't been installed on my car. You can't tell from these pics, but the body shop did a nice job blending the valance into the front fenders. Here are a couple of pics...

I like the top one, too. Is it custom?

Here's an image for measuring a slip yoke from your trans to a pinion flange.

+1 for ModernDriveline. Well thought out and engineered parts and outstanding customer service. However, if you're really strapped for cash, you'll do better scavenging parts from a junk yard.

My console is cracked from the right radio knob hole to the outer edge of the face plate, which seems like a common weak spot on these consoles. Using epoxy, I tried gluing a backing plate to bridge the crack, but the epoxy did not adhere to the pot metal. Has anyone successfully repaired a...

I had the same problem with my T5, but the solution turned out to be simple. The rubber shift boot inside the car on the trans tunnel was getting pinched between the shifter and the trans tunne openingl, which pushed the shifter out of gear. I just found a different shift boot, and the problem...

Man, that turbo sounds wicked!!!

Too late... the trigger has been pulled on paint. The car only has about 4 weeks until it's done!!! (can't wait to start reassembly) And just for clarification, I'm not really "road racing" the car... just driving open track events. My car will be primarily a street car, but I do plan to...

I have an Edelbrock Thunder Series 800cfm on my ~425hp 351w, and I have to say that it performs brilliantly under normal-to-spirited street driving conditions, including a great idle. However, when I've driven on the track (road course), I have a couple of problems... 1) there's a minor...

I like the Maier Racing pieces. They have two mounting points front & rear. I can feel a considerable difference in how my car drives. However, they are more expensive.

I'm very happy with the results from Second Skin products. It's a peel and stick type of sound deadener, like Dynomat. Here's a great website that compares modern sound deadener options... SoundDeadenerShowdown

Just recently, I noticed that you can buy new glass with a smoke tint for classic Mustangs. Here's an image of the window glass options listed on Sacramento Mustang's website. Just do a search for "window glass".

Here's a great website that compares different sound deadeners and heat ensulators. SoundDeadenerShowdown

***Repaint engine bay *Clean up all the mismatching colors... wires, distributor, etc. *Really sort out your spark plug wire routing *New hoses... just plain black or if you want more bling, go with some of that stainless steel hose. *New valve covers... maybe something custom like this Link

Unless you want to install wheel well trim molding after painting it, you might as well roll the fender lips.

Sweet...