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Brand new new used, All PA stuff and beyond, welded front drum, reverse manual valve body, billet servo, 6 pinion planetary, Kevlar bands, Red altos, Hardened main shaft, custom dipstick, Deep billet pan, SFI JW bell, Lucas Bendall 4000 stall converter, SFI flexplate, 157 tooth, 28 oz, every...

I'm far from an expert but I have never seen a mexican late model roller block, this one is non roller and from 1975. You can email me at [email protected] if interested in it. Matt

Yes, still available. Matt

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I picked it up for a project which is not going to happen, all I have done to it is have it tanked, media blasted, and checked for cracks - she got a clean bill of health. It is .040 and can stay there. One main cap was crappy so it was replaced - that was a pain to find. So it will need line...

Well maybe not to you guys but it is to me! Here is the rundown: B50 block Eagle forged crank Eagle forged H beam rods with arps JE inverted dome pistons lunati cam true double roller chain high volume oil pump arp oil pump shaft canton 7 quart racing pan with pick-up stock...

Can cause issues, get a thread chaser, put some nice and sticky grease on it and clean up the threads. That way shavings do not tend to fall into the motor. Matt

Usually you have to spend so much to make them right, that you would have saved money and goten better performance simply buying the right head in the first place. They are copies, bad copies at that. Matt

Pretty much any 351W block should handle 700 hp, however there are a ton of factors which may kill one +/- that mark. Don't know what you are building but maybe consider an SHP block if you are getting into that power neighborhood and adding spray. Matt

I'm not sure what "crunk" is but if you can hear a vacumn leak, then you need to find out what/where it is leaking from and yes it will make your car run badly. Matt

It will take you a few hours with a big fat "IF" you do not break any timing cover/water pump bolts. Don't forget the bottom two timing cover bolts coming up from the oil pan. Make sure the timing cover is flat, clean, and painted before you put it back(not necessary but sure looks better)...

Could be the sock in the tank is clogged up, if you are clogging fuel filters with junk, that means your tank is full of junk. Sooner or later your injectors will be in the same shape. You mentioned seafoam in the tank, did you do the engine via vacumn lines as well? Matt

Isn't that just a stock block? I never bought into the level 20,30 etc stuff. What I have heard about DSS is mostly not favorable at all. Matt

Have you considered the 351 SHP block?

Just read through and had a couple questions/suggestions: 1 have you gone over every ground in the engine compartment and cleaned down to bare metal and re-installed? might sound dumb but mustangs are REALLY fussy about grounds, I usually install a massive extra one. 2 have you put a...

The arp kit does not contain all the correct bolts, been there done that... Matt

swap injectors and see if the problem follows that injector, if it does it is no good. If it does not follow then it is likely you have a wiring issue.

You know, I'm on a ton of mustang/ford forums and I think that is the first time I've ever seen anyone take a potshot at Joel. Joel helps more people then anyone I know on the internet, I should know I'm one of them. Jay is a big boy and can handle himself so I won't speak on that subject...

Well I also recommend Jay Allen, his support on my project has been first rate, prices fair. Can't speak for other people but I belong to another site where lots of people have the same experience with Jay that I do. He knows how to set up sbfs to go fast thats for sure. Sory you had...

Buy a 331 stroker kit, take both to a good machine shop, done. Sell the 302 and buy a shortblock from Fordstrokers.com, done. Matt