Search results

It's my 91 GT. It did this even when I had the automatic in it. I will take a look and see if the cable might be binding somewhere. I can warm it up and run it up and see if it's taking a while to retract back to idle mechanically. My assumption I have something sensor/CPU related is that it is...

As eluded to above. Describe the rust. Is it rusted through the metal in big ugly scaley chuncks of scab-like material or do you have a little light surface rust where the paint/primer is thin?

Aren't they different sizes... If you buy replacement hoses, it should become pretty self explanitory.

I see that who ever installed the intake used the rubber end-seals provided with most Felpro intake kits. It looks as though yours slipped during the installation by the amount of it I can see in your picture comming out between the intake and the block. This will easilly cause an oil leak...

When I first fire up the car it will run at about 2000 rpm and then drop to 800-900 after 10-15 seconds. This is of course expected and makes me believe the idle air control valve is working. However, as I drive the car, whenever I let off the gas it holds at 2000 rpm for 5-10 seconds before...

Coolant in oil = bad Antifreeze (Ethylene Glycol) has an active ingredient that rapidly deteriorates engine bearings. Water in your oil might cause a hydrolic lifter to collapse thus not opening your valve enough and give you a "pop" out of the exhaust or even your intake depending on which...

I used an Autozone rack (Duralast brand/rebuilt) in one that I had that was leaking and it worked fine. Before I got that rack I went through 3 of Advanced auto's rebuilt racks from some company that I never heard of and the first had the inner tierods backwards, the second blew its input seal...

4 Speed car? Good luck getting whomever has it now to let go of it.

Glad to see you got her right.

It did? Well than you need to get one of those Austrailian rear gear sets where the pinion engages the left side of the ring gear.:lol: So, it's possible you have a very clean non-working injector...? Try removing the plug from youir injectors, one at a time while running and see if you have...

Check your distributor... for loose inards and shaft play.

That uper intake manifold is on backwards. :rlaugh: My assumptions: The CPU is from the same car the engine came from. The wiringharness is from the same car and not damaged. Thus injector timing/sequence should be good 1989 5.0 original fuel injectors? Go over firing order one more time...

Got it! It was the distributor. The places where the PIP holds down in the dist where worn and allowed movement causing the magnet to contact the rotating cup thing and causing an errant signal making it run like dooky.

I already removed my distributor and removed the "cup" looking thing and saw that the magnet has been making contact with the inside of it and the magnet on the PIP is loose. Probably just going to go get a reman distributor. I think it's toast and my urinr colored fuel is probably fine since I...

Okay, I pulled the codes... Of note, I think the most vital and probably the problem is 14 - PIP circuit failure I also got 33,66, and 96. I am not well versed in 5.0 Fox tech but I have read that the PIP has something to do with the distributor. I have no idea what a PIP is but if it has to do...

Re. your "bad" gas milage... Yes, not having third gear (1:1 ratio) will absolutely kill your milage. I am actually impressed your getting 11 mpg out of it. My car has a 351w, a four speed and 3.89 gears and I was getting 6 mpg out of it when I drove it regularly.

305's at the very least:rlaugh:

15 inch Cragar Street Stars... The one in my profile picture I had 14 inch styled steel replicas. 17 inch is about all the bigger that can still look right on the classics.

Thanks for that! I did not want to have to sit in the car and turn the key back and forth for 4 hours. I am concerned now there may be other issues as the car is running even worse now. Can anyone tell me what the symptoms are of bad O-2 sensors and or bad Mass Airflow sensor? Still, no light...

That's what I mean. If it has 85,000 showing on the odometer, they can not prove to me that it's 85K, 185K or 285K. Therfore, I guess "advertized" milage does not matter at all. What condition the car is in is what matters.