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Not exactly the help I expected, but thanks guys.

The three wires to the tps are green, which is vref (from what I've read, should be 5v, which it is) black, common ground, which is showing .500ish ohm from sensor to batt ground, then the orange, which is sensor feed to the computer(which also connects to the egr that I used for the vam) I'm...

Base tps voltage is at .002, sweeps to .068. Vref at green wire is slightly below 5v. Same reading w/ spare tps manually swept w/ screwdriver.....checked ohm from sensor to batt neg, shows around .500 ohm. Any ideas? On a 2.3t, but it's still EEC based. Unable to pull codes also...

At rest w/ koeo, .002. Sweeps to .068. Vref wire in to tps reads just shy of 5v, w/ tps unplugged. Also checked ground wire from tps plug to the batt. I get the same reading w/ a spare tps I had laying around. I was having trouble pulling codes w/ my handheld scanner, so I tried the jumper...

I built a 2.3T 87 mustang about 2 years ago, been running fantastic, but has an intermittant hiccup. While replacing rear shocks, I decided to try to pull codes on it. My handheld scanner wouldn't communicate for some reason, so I used the jumper wire method. For some odd reason, w/ the key off...

x2. Practice on something less "important" for your first. You'll cause alot of labor intensive problems if you hack it up. Find a beater and experiment first. Surely you can find someone who wants a cheap job, hell might make a few bucks at it even.

They use a differnent input shaft. You can interchange the 5.0 and 2.3 shafts, but it's more work than it's worth IMO. I have one from a turbocoupe that I use for a backup, but I know it's on borrowed time, and I drive accordingly, but for the record, mines been in the 13's numerous times...

Thats what I was told by our local Ford tech. :shrug:

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This is the 10th year for the Buick vs Ford Shootout held at Thundervalley Raceway Park in Noble, OK. It will be Saturday Oct 30, 2004. Last year Buick won, this year its time for our revenge!! For more info Clicky

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I agree with the masses 30# are probably going to be big for you combo as it is. Pro-M has a chart that is a good guideline for when to upgrade injectors. http://www.pro-flow.com/tech%20info/sizing.htm

I have a 331 as my daily driver and I have no issues other than the current no start when hot :bang: I did a lot a research before I bought my motor. I felt 331 was more practical for my needs. And my buddy happened to be selling his with 1800 miles on it to go bigger. I think you are...

Wow this thread is just what I was looking for!!! My car is doing the same thing. Refuses to start after it gets hot. We have tried everything we could think of except the ECT :bang: But we will try that soon enough! Thanks guys! :banana:

i agree totally....looked simple enough until we started and then it got kinda confusing...but definately worth the upgrade :D

glad i stayed in fairview heights this year...sounds like a pita

a bunch of guys were running this weekend at WFC b/c the rules changed and et streets weren't allowed....the MT truck ran out...but that is the only place i have seen them so far.... i run nittos and they do good in the rain as long as there is tread :rolleyes:

were you gone ;)

you will need a bellhousing and shifter for sure. i have heard that you can modify the existing crossmember to make it work. and i am almost postive you only have to change clutches for the TKO

wow my king cobra had alot let pedal effort than the stock or even the ram hd clutch i have now... but i will upgrade to a spec when i do and cyclical on here sells them :) Spec