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I know that if buying new I'd go AFR most likely. But if the budget is in the $500 range I have just fallen back to a low mileage Explorer engine and maybe upgrade the valve springs depending on the mileage of the engine. For instance Ford sells a nice crate motor that is set up for a GT40...

I typically love to round robin my cars when I'm testing and tuning. That said the second and third passes the car runs somewhat quicker (ET) but the MPH doesn't pick up significantly (a measurement of power). The ET probably picks up due to my getting into the game and my brain getting into the...

Read this link below. It will help you see some interesting things about the GT40P heads as well when compared to the others. Pay attention to A.U.C (area under the curve). I can get complete running Explorer GT40P engines from my local yards for $450! I own three of them. Oh and I always liked...

Heck I just REMOVED my E303 and 1.6 rollers and put in a STOCK HO cam into my 98 Explorer Motor (in my Mustang) with a set of Crane 1.7's. The care idles SO much better and power.... well, I don't think I lost a freaking bit. Heck even according to some Desktop Dyno software the HO made...

First let me say I have gone beyond 20 and have datalogged as high as 28 at very light loads on a 35 mile trip running 70mph. BUT did so in Open Loop and I adjusted the Fuel - Open Loop Stabilised table (FN1360) My values verses the stock values further down. Notice my values are much leaner...

better = cheaper. 2 ounces of acetone per 10 gallons of gas to get 3 points in octane increase is cheaper than the difference between 87 and 90 octane gas alone. I did extensive tuning on my 1989 Mustang prior to running any Acetone to get the maximum MPG through tuning alone. This involved...

I run a factory OEM 97 Explorer engine in one car and another with cam and intake in the other. I delete EGR on both through the EEC. The Explorer engines with GT40P heads don't need much timing as the 5.0 HO motors do. Unless you need it for emissions go to this link for a way to by pass it...

Yes. I own two Mustangs. I have done extensive tuning and data logging with my Tweecer R/T. I can provide logs to those that disbelieve. I tune both with an LC-1 wide band to confirm my AFR. I run one 17:1 typically and use ACETONE for octane increase because I run 87 in both cars. On the...

Yes. The ground you might be thinking about on the rear of the intake is the HEGO ground. Go to www.fordfuelinjection.com and see if that helps you out any. And don't take this the wrong way because my intent is not to insult. If you are having this much trouble trying to grasp the...

The fuel injector harness plugs into the "salt and pepper" shakers. So where in that replacement did you even touch the ground mentioned above? Unless you replaced the ENTIRE EEC harness you didn't touch the ground.

YES. That in BOLD above is this: The "SOME CONNECTOR" you mention should be THIS below

First off, that isn't a ground. Leave it alone. Leave what ever wires connected to your starter alone.

This is a BLOCK GROUND. (I made my own) And it runs to HERE Again, JUST MAKE ONE. It takes 10 minutes.

at least connect the block to the chassis as in the pictures with the double eyelet cable. Even though you have a battery to block, I'm ONLY talking about the chassis to the block with a good HEAVY cable. Then insure you have a smaller wire from the battery negative to the chassis. That is...

That answer could fill a page. 100 symptoms have 100 likely problems. Grounds are the most overlooked part of any circuit in my experience. The question is, are yours good? Have you checked? You've gone through the trouble to change out the engire injector harness and replaced and checked...

Two. One for each side of the block. One will do it for sure. The second is insurance. Add a smaller wire for the battery to framerail as in the pictures. This is the factory setup anyway so it should already have something close to what I'm talking about.

2 wires coming from the negative battery post as in the picture. 3rd picture down, refer to the location on the power steering pump bracket -its connected to the block so that is good enough. There is also an area on the timing chain cover that is threaded but hard to get to from the top...

bump... updated with photos

This is the basic 4 gauge common battery cable with two eyelet ends. Note the comments in the pictures and in between the pictures. Also notice I have two different cars, one with a rear mounted battery but the pictures are clearer using one car for some of them. Same principle applies. I don't...

I'm headed out to my shop and will snap some tonight for you. Well you've got two sensors out of range for sure but if current related, ground, etc... then you can get some really messed up results. Example: Guy rolls up to my house in an 89 GT. He has owned it 14 of those years and been a...