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I'm pretty sure it is the sensors being messed up causing it to read negative. I did check the battery and got correct voltage. When I put the new sensors in I got positive voltage (the numbers I posted earlier). I read somewhere that negative voltage is possible but is due to a contaminate...

First, let me make a correction to my earlier post. When I plugged the gas-cleaned sensors back in and ran the car the voltage was NEGATIVE. So at idle it read NEGATIVE .9 volt and with a blip of throttle went to NEGATIVE .12 volt. I'm assuming I've fried those sensors. I went ahead and...

Update: I soaked the newer sensors in gasoline overnight to clean them off and re-installed them this morning. After the car warmed up the senors both sensors read .9 as the car idles and hold steady at that voltage. If I blip the throttle the voltage immediately drops down, going as low as .12...

Thanks Joe. Based on my testing it appears the sensors are bad but I'm not convinced they are and at $40 a pop I'm not ready to take the chance yet. I have an Auto Meter A/R ratio gauge (not wideband) and remember the last time I replaced the sensors the meter didn't read anything at idle...

Car has been running rich and today CEL came on briefly while idling and gave codes 41 & 91. Normally I get code 15 (has SCT chip) and 11's but has run rich for as long as I can remember. I've checked for vacuum leaks numerous times but do not find any. Read prior posts regarding these codes...

If it is your starter you can also have it rebuilt by an auto electric shop as opposed to buying a new one. In my case the cost was less than 1/2 of a new one and was rebuilt with higher quality components.

You mentioned getting 10.5V at the inertia switch, meaning you are losing 1.5V from the relay. Is that enough power to adequately run your pump or is the wire losing something along the way causing the issues you're describing?

Just to follow up...I am still running the closed system through the newly created PCV in the driver side valve cover, with the stock PCV location blocked off. I've put at least 500 miles on the car since doing this and so far everything is working perfectly. No smoke, ever. Oil level is...

Went ahead and drilled into my driver side valve cover over the weekend. Installed some sort of pressure fitting (Home Depot) that screwed into the hole I cut, stuck in a PCV grommet, and a PCV valve. See attached pics. I first tried a T set up, connecting the PCV behind the intake and the...

While trying to decide which way to go I noticed there is no baffle under the PCV screen in my lower intake. Before cutting into the valve cover I'm probably going to install a baffle and see if that eliminates the problem first. Anyone have suggestions for a baffle on an Edelbrock Performer RPM?

So are you suggesting installing this type of part in the driver side valve cover? Then connecting it to the PCV tubing going to the intake? Or installing it in another location? Seems I need to leave the passenger side valve cover like it is (stock) so that it doesn’t affect the air going into...

Thanks for the replies. From what I’ve read and understand about PCV systems using a breather is a no-no as it eliminates the recirculation of gases back into the engine. Noobz, please elaborate on your post...by check valve do you mean PCV? What are your thoughts on installing a second PCV in...

Oil is being sucked into the upper intake manifold from the PCV valve, causing the engine to blow out blue/gray smoke upon startup and heavy acceleration. 92 GT 347 Stroker Edelbrock Performer Intake Roush Iron Heads High volume oil pump All stock emissions gear attached and working except...

With the flaw being on the outside of the screw hole I don't see it being an issue. The gasket will be flush against the upper and lower intake on all places that need to be sealed up.

Thanks for sending pics. Appears PO ran aftermarket RCA wires from the head unit to the amp, then must have run aftermarket speaker wires from the amp back to the console to tie in to the factory wiring for the speakers. That's a good way of doing it, assuming factory wiring is in good shape...

It's been a long time since I've had a factory unit in my car but it also came with the premium stereo system with factory amp. I had to remove the factory amp to get the aftermarket system to work with the factory wiring. I'm sure there was a way to keep the factory amp but it wasn't worth...

Update: After reading the other posts and researching this more I believe that my list is missing the canister purge solenoid vacuum line. My charcoal canister had been removed years ago and the solenoid had been capped off and fuel tank vent line was just hanging there. After reading more...

I have the same intake. Below is how I have the vacuum hoses run: 1) Capped 2) Fuel Pressure Regulator 3) Vacuum Tree on firewall (it is connected to the "S" tube, on far left) 4) PCV 5) Vacuum distribution block (not sure of the actual name, it has 4-5 vacuum lines going in/out of it, and is...

Are you running underdrive pulleys? Is it possible that your gauge is reading incorrectly? Slightly different issue, but mine ran hot for years. I do have underdrive pulleys although I would probably swap them out for stock if my stock pulleys weren't rusted and useless. At idle the temp would...

I also use the stock TPS and IAC on the Edelbrock Performer intake and have for 15 years with no issues. I have a BBK 65mm T/B but should have gone 70mm and probably will change it sometime in the future.