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The dowels were on the flywheel. New ARP bolts as well. I am noticing a little wompy rotation in the HB when the car is running. What brand HB should I get? It needs to be a 50oz. A/C is solved, bad High Pressure Switch.

CCRM is brand new. All KOEO codes are PASS. Only KOER codes is EGR missing and rich fuel mixture(I'm assuming because it needs a computer tune)

This is the flywheel Ford Mustang 1986-1995 5.0L SPEC 50oz Billet Steel Flywheel Clutch Ford Mustang 1986-1995 5.0L Stage 2+ SPEC Clutch The guys at TrePerformance recommended this combo to me for my total plans for the car. And yes, I do have a 50 oz imbalance. It's just so much...

Alright, It runs, but now it vibrates bad and A/C compressor won't engage Previous post http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/814086-help-no-spark-all.html Alrighty, finally got the car to start. Ended up being a bad (new) distro. So the rebuild is basically complete. Now I still have 2...

okay, so finally got enough time to work on the car. replaced the reman. stock distro with the msd, and now I have spark at the number 1. It still doesn't start, but at least it's progress. I'm pretty sure now it's just a timing issue. Report back soon.

Will this stop the key cylinder from going around, or should I replace the tumbler at the same time?

I've been going through and tracing my no spark problems. All of my components test good on another car, so I'm left with the thought it may be the ignition switch itself. How do I get to it and replace it or test it? Thanks Guys

I got a new MSD-ProBillet to try instead of the reman. stock one I got. I"m hoping it will work this time. If not, I'm running out of things to replace. Hope to install it tomorrow.

Just pulled the distro out, and along with it came the oil pump shaft, the stupid little retainer must have broke. Any chance that the shaft being stuck in the end of the distro would cause the PIP not to function?

okay, so replaced the coil. Still no spark at all. so now the list of what I've replaced again: COIL Distro Cap Rotor Plug wires plugs CCRM(Fan relay was blown) So what's next?

This is what I get, so I'm assuming the coil is bad. Pri: .5 Sec: 3084 Below are the Specs. If I am right and it is bad, what kind should I replace it with? Thanks Brand MSD Ignition Manufacturer's Part Number 5527 Part Type Ignition Coils Product Line MSD Street Fire...

Anyone know if this is accurate? Cause if it is, i'm only getting 3500 on both secondary resistances cjones's Avatar cjones cjones is offline Founding Member Join Date: July 2002 Location: Avondale, AZ Posts: 1,546 to test the coil; get an Ohm meter and check primary...

Is there a way to test the coil?

Trying to get the car to run and I still can't get any spark at all at any of the plug wires. What else do I try? I have replaced: Distro Cap Rotor Plug wires plugs CCRM(Fan relay was blown)

And no spark at the plug. New dist, cap, and rotor.

I've just put a 347 in the car. Trying to get it started up and it won't. Plug in my reader(worked just fine with previous motor) and it won't acknowledge it's plugged in. I'm guessing something tripped but I can only find one fuse related to the eec, and it isn't blown. Any thoughts? Also...

I have about 1000 miles on my engine. Had an injector die on me, so I pulled the upper intake tonight. The 4 closet runner ports to the cabin have a fair coating of oil in them already. Is this normal or do you think I might have a ring problem?

Tps is .99. IAC screw is 3/4 turn. Idle is perfect at 850. Just jumps when shifting. After looking around, apparently it's the idle retard crap. Annoying, but until I get a chip burned, I guess it will have to live with it. Thanks.

Finally got the car put back together. Some of you might remember my earlier problem with the car not starting, come to find out I got a mislabeled package of pushrods from summit, and they were .250 too big, so they were holding everything open. Ruined the set of rocker arms, and nicked a...

wrong cat.