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Ford strokers 347 cobra oil pan and vintage air front runner setup ISIS power system

rear 4 link starting - hydroboost install with cunifer lines

ford strokers 347 and at bodyshop blocking the primer

pics from body shop-- 2 years almost exactly start to finish..

looks really good.. i was ready to buy the 6 guage cluster and get the greenline guages from SW but now i have to consider this with a rally pac add on.. damn you! LOL .. i thought i had my mind made up:D

i paid $125 for the hydroboost with master cyl from a 04 in as new cond.. the keisler clutch master kit without the hydraulic t-o bearing was $279 i will see it monday hopefully -- i know it a lot for a master cyl.. but master and lines cost $100.. heims for the ends $10 ea-- if it saves...

i looked at the AJE kit but its just not my style-- nothing really wrong with it but if i was going to change the front end "type" it would be the JME full front clip.. now that is NICE.. but $6500 + shocks + brakes.. but only 2 so far exist ring brothers is building a car right now with it...

do you have a pic of the bracket you fabbed for the booster.. did you end up relocating the pin higher as well?

i have been trying this over the past few days-- i have a hydroboost from a 2004 with the larger master cyl- i have flipped the bracket around and it will clear the shock tower by about 3/8" the pedal needs the pin mounted higher- the hole in the firewall has to be lower- to get the angle...

i'd have to go out to the shop and measure it but i believe its the same width as a 67 diff.. got too many numbers in my head.. 65" width- less axle- plus 2.5 offset for bolt on retainers- .180 thou for rotor hat- etc.. i have 3 measurements bare diff axle flange (bolt on axle new style ford...

floor pics-- finished painting the front spindles today and will start on front brakes tomorrow. mini tub rear wheelwells pics on cardomain website--

id say #2 but mainly for the hydraulic portion #1 theres lots of info-- but maybe a thread that compiles it all would be good-- there are a ton of kits and mustangsteves brackets for oem stuff- #2 seems straight forward the hardest part seems to be the clutch actuation method.. i am at...

if by preload - you mean its essentially like your stepping on the clutch pedal then your not fully dis_engaging the PP.. so without the cable connected can you move fork back enough to get freeplay? if not the sleeve is too long or the pivot or some part of the fork assy has an issue if you...

do you mean you cant move the clutch arm after bolting the bellhousing on the block? sounds like wrong length of throwout bearing sleeve if thats the case

in process of restoring my 64.5 vertible- let me know what you think-- still have to decide on what type of rack and pinion - TCP or steeroids.. reassembly started today-- the build list-- 4 wheel discs- all 2 piece rotors and hats--- 13" front with outlaw 4000xd calipers and coleman...