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Anybody got the link to the DCC controller website? Thanks

Does anyboby know if you can weld through ceramic coating or does it have to be ground off? The real question is on a pair of MAC LTs. If they are bolted up to the block and I cut some 3/8" steel to bridge between the tubes and welded it, would it work? Anybody try it. I can't be the first...

Disregard this post, thanks Forgot that I posted it before.

E cam here, vacuum at idle is 14 inches. Idle speed in neutral is 850, AOD car, gear is 600-650ish Vacuum reading taken off the brake booster. Good luck. What is your vacuum reading at idle when the engine is revved up? It should drop to 0. Does it start to sputter and backfire...

I'd rather see you put the time and dollars in to a mass-air upgrade.

There are provisions for all vacuum fittings, EGR, etc. It is CARB legal as most of Edelbrock's stuff is.

Factory freaks are real. Just not anymore. Back in the muscle car days, lots of substitutions took place when there might have been 6-7 different engine options for a specific vehicle line. It was not uncommon to "upgrade" a car if the required engine didn't meet the car on the assembly and...

agree with everyone else. Also, that stall will not be a true 2400. It will be more like a 18-1900, which is just barely higher than stock. Go for a 30-3200 stall and that cam will work nicely. check my sig, I had to upgrade on the stall because I went the 2400 route earlier. It just sucked...

Remeber those two gears are made of different metals. My gear was pressed and had a roll pin thru it. The pin was not directly straight across the shaft of the distrubitor, it was at a slight angle. The FMS replacement gear is pressed and roll pinned also.

call summit, they have a pig tail with all the connections made by MSD. It's like $20 bucks, worth the hassle of not dity. I mounted mine on the underside of were the battery is located. It hides the bolt heads and the unit is dry and well ventilated. :nice:

plugs for the back of the heads. That's in case you don't hook up the EGR

me too on all those questions.

Ok, having an AOD I can help you. 1st, ditch the 75mm and put a junkyard 60mm on. Look at my mild engine and which places 293rwhp to the ground and I use a 65mm. Secondly, 4.10s, for about $425 installed, you wouldn't be embarrassed anymore. Third, 3K stall, don't buy junk, trust me on this...

I'm running ASP pulleys and a 140 Powermaster Alt. I had to switch the alt pulley to a 2" or a 1 7/8" from Summit. If not, I'd sit at the stop light with my foot on the brake, and any other accessory and watch my battery drain.

Forgot about the price. I bought mine for about $350. I think the price has increased. Installation would be an hour or two at going shop rates. It is a easy install, disconnect the TV cable, drain the fluid, drop the pan, drop the VB, install new VB, mount toggles and tap into a electrical...

You can use the stock shifter, only the following applies: P = park R = reverse N = Neutral OD = 3rd D = 2nd 1 = 1st You must manually shift up from 1st to 2nd to 3rd and down shift manually. Essentially it is a stick w/o a clutch. OD is controlled by a toggle switch and is...

If I may make a suggestion. Forget the shift kit and call Dave at JDs Performance. He'll sell you PA's manual VB with a transbrake. Now you're talking performance. I have it, love it and never want to go back to a automatic, automatic again.

I am going to mount it in front of the condenser, bypassing the stock cooler in the radiator. Does this sound like a good plan? It seems pretty easy, I just want to be sure I'm doing it right. Don't by-pass the rad cooler, put yours after the rad cooler and while your at it, install a remote...