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Just for my own curiousity, at what temp would you shut the car down in fear of harming the motor? It doesnt seem to be written in stone anywhere.

Id rather run the right stat though hack, went to the parts store today, after bringing out the wrong part three times I got online and found another thread with some numbers, went back got the right one, slapped it in and now she runs great and idles around 195 after being run for quite awhile...

Found out I do have the wrong thermostat, Im hoping this makes a significant change. The car hit just over 220 after shut off and was getting around 210 at idle. I do have an aftermarket gauge. It pukes a little out but agree that could be because of too much fluid. Im still not happy with it...

I did have the radiator cleaned and will probably give a jegs/summit 2 core aluminum a chance, do you think between that and the fan shroud I could be looking at a solution to this?

Okay so heres the situation, Ive got a rebuilt 351C .30 overbore. That is getting hot at idle after being ran for awhile or after it is shut off. I replaced the thermostat 180 fail safe, cap, hoses, and even have water wetter in with the 50/50 mix. It doesnt have a fan shroud which I plan to...

Are you referring to placement and alignment of the roof panel or finishing off the interior to a stock nature? I believe I will do a fastback headliner but will probably ditch the rear seat for some clean looking aluminum panels.

Downward, thanks alot for all your help and going out of your way to get me some pictures. I believe this is going to be a winter project as I would like to enjoy the car over the summer.

That would be awesome downwardspiral. And I think I may be the first to do this with our era of mustang. Some may say it is because there is no following but it seems like there are enough of us out there.

Does anyone have an image of an interior back area of a 71-73 fastback without seat and interior trim so that I can see the support structure.

Couldnt I fabricate those inner supports? Something along these lines.. And do something similar with the supports that are inbetween the trunk and backseat area. Something similar to the picture would give plenty of structure correct?

I have had my 73 coupe for almost 10 years and there is personal value to it as I built it with my father who past away a couple years ago. I will never sell the car, although it is not my prefered body style. There is a local guy who has an entire Mach roof section from A pillars to rear of...

Engine before edelbrock 600CFM and just prior to install

Here are a couple pics of My 73 Coupe 71 front end. Build in progress. Ive had it 10 years now, bought it when I was 12 for $600 running with an extra set of tires. Have done extensive work so far. Rebuilt 351C 2V 600 cfm edelbrock edelbrock performer intake forged pistons 8.83:1...

Im sure you could use a variety of pin styles they even have flush mount ones but you are correct no hinges or latches used at all, pinned at all corners for the race weight hood.

I agree with several of these people, I would like to see a sticky on something 67-73

very true, I "want" to purchase the full 72" fiberglass front clip, 1500+ shipping

usbody has them for 690 for heavyduty(stock hinges and latch use) or 450 for race weight(held by hood pins)

Hey thanks for offering up your help. In 1973 due to new safety regulations they switched over to captive mounts which are now discontinued and not in reproduction. This is why I am in this mess and trying to figure out a solution without custom fabrication of some sort of spacer system beneath...

They sell one mount (MM2257) for both driver and passenger side, getting them mixed up would only effect the front to back location of the engine and not the width from eyelet to eyelet of the mounts.

Has anyone had experience with these mounts? If so Ill go ahead and buy them.