The rwhp range that I have seen on a na engine when adding long tubes and a x pipe is 13-15. Before the catalytic days no one was getting 25 hp from a 300 hp engine from adding long tubes.
Long tubes are the best way to go but how can so many people justify spending $400+ dollars for mufflers which may give you 5 rwhp tops and then turn around and say that the stock cats flow well and a high flow h pipe is a waste of money. Those stock cats are the most restrictive part of you...
I would consider carbon fiber clutch packs while you are in there. They also make a heavy duty pinion bearing. You are putting a lot more power to the wheels than stock with a super charger.
I've seen one person with 275's on his and said he had no problems with walking. I also looked at a Bridgestone pamphlet and the biggest that they recommend is a 255 for our wheel size.
Could the fact that the hood is aluminum and the rest of the car is steel have something to do with why there's insulation under the hood. Different metals disperse heat differently. I know one thing for sure. If you take off that insulation and the paint on the hood flakes Ford will not...
Eibachs are 4 way progressive springs which will make your car handle well around turns(road racing) and decrease nose dives. FFRP springs have progressive springs on the front only which means they decrease nose dives but have a specific rate spring on the rear. This means they do not...
If you have $800 I'd go for the C and L plenum intake manifold with those cams. It's control valve delete built in. If that's too much money I would get the control valve delete plates.
I've seen a few posts with stock blocks blowing with 9 psi. Nothing can go wrong with detonation when you're running boost on an engine with the compression that our 3v's have especially in cold weather and in overdrive.
Beats $250 for FRPP black valve covers. Plus if you are going to port your heads you can do the timing chain cover to match. Also thinking you can get a machine shop to hot tank them first.