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I thought it was wierd also but never seen it before..So the 2-3" drop with this shackle plus some 2" drop from springs!! Ofcourse. Looks like i need to get rid of the bracket but cut the tab off to weld on for the shock.

Thank you for the reply..hope these help

picked up new stang .. has sway bar and eibach pro springs inthe back... problem is it sits about 3 inches lower than the front.. (dragging azz) front looks stock hieght... whats the problem here?? cut springs? couldnt get a straight answer from seller

thats what im trying to avoid..((throwin parts at it) not that i can afford to) UPDATE:that resistor i put in at the sending unit--didnt work, but then i put it behind the gas gauge between signal and ground where the grid stuff is and plugged the cluster in...it worked. it showed a lil less...

thank you for clarifiying...i know, its more like mm.... i meant just in general linear measurements. :doh:

SENDIN UNIT= 8 volts sorry guys...i thought the other post didnt go through..

i dont think 315 would fit without widening the wheel wells... i got 17x9 with a 275/40zr/17 tire and theres less than half a inch between tire and front part of wheel well... you might be able to go to 285s but i dont know exactly how much wider in inches that is

my gas gauge is pegged to full...i put a 84ohm resistor in like jrichker(thankx:nice:) said...but it is still pegged to FULL! i checked voltage at sending unit and it reads 8.25v with car running...also to check my fuel level i have to : (very quickly) rotate the key on /off.....each time it...

#1 cause of belt squeal is simply a loose belt... make sure belt is tight first..about 3/8-1/2 inch movement max when pressed w/fingers hard. as for the pulleys, with the belt on tighten the hell out of em no torque wrench needed...just put your weight on it- if you put pulleys on with...

i have been enlightend! thanx for clearing that up...and to jerryd for the additional explaination.

and D= '93Cobra

yes i was thinking transbrake...,please explain how a linelock for a manual transmission works. i am unfamiliar with this

(just dawned on me)...are the 2 blocks the same year? different year engines may have different oil pan depths i have a 93 that had a 5.0 swapped in it...i had no idea the year until i took off a bad alt. 87 was the only year that had my part number..the bolts/connections didnt line up ...

yeah. you can hook it up using stock ingnition...heres a programmable 1 .. MSD Programmable Digital Shift Light at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping! i was just looking at them cuz im swaping to a t5 and i want a shift light but dont want that big tach on my dash this is a fancy one ..but...

OIC. cuz i someone i know told me chock wheels, pull e-brake,hold hard on brake pedal, put in drive, and note the highest rpm it will go while floored. about 1800 i hopped over both bricks and shot'em out the back Does this mean at 1800rpms the converter lockd up and i took off.

Autometer sells shift lights without the big tach...people usually mount them on the steering colum right behind the steering wheel.. TCI for the linelock but im pretty sure they only make those for automatics

and did you see the link G-POP SHOP has rebuild kits for a buttload of turbos. so even if we do end up with a junky, rebuild kit price is reasonable,

Melling is a big name for high volume oil pumps,, and they do require a sumped oil pan...either buy a new oil pump..or a deep sump pan. stock should be good for less than 450hp . ANd dont try to find a stock pan that will fit if you do have a high volume pump cuz you will suck all the oil...

i think itll work it pretty damn close to what ive seen on 306 setups with good flowing heads>.550lift 230d 110lsa ...but do you want a MMM,GOOD match or a PERFECT mach. best way to know is to call an aftermarket cam specialist like compcams or lunati or whatever and ask what they would...

piston rings too but i didnt want to scare him just yet .lol.