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Known by some, not by me Good point. I also decided to change the upper ball joint angle by cutting the UCA's; cutting, bending and welding to suit. Hope my trig is up to snuff. Just couldn't justify the $270 for the negative wedge kit when I could backyard engineer it myself for next to...

Here are some shots of the reinforcement plates I welded into the stock upper A-arms.

408W headers Wow, I could have written this post myself! Maybe this will help your decision making process: Primaries 1 5/8" or smaller fit better and are fine for low and mid range torque but are too small to make big power up top. Your displacement and head selection indicate flow...

Nicks and dings You've already got the best advice on how to deal with the nick. But just to share a "best practice" of reputable engine builders: measure everything you can. A simple v-block setup on a workbench with a dial indicator will allow you to check for journal out-of-round and taper...

Rear suspension confusion I'm in the same quandry for the same reasons, so I just finished reading Chassis Engineering by Herb Adams. I couldn't make heads or tails of all the differing opinions, so I decided instead to educate myself on the fundamentals of WHY different systems work and what...

That's why I made my own. That being said, I'll never do it again. It was a friggin nightmare. For me, maximizing performance was the priority so 1 5/8" or smaller primaries was out of the question. But that meant shock tower mangling and difficult-to-reverse modifications. If you're concerned...

Consider solid lifters If you're looking for maximum power and you're not concerned with vacuum or smooth idle, consider running a solid roller. Since solid roller lifters are shorter, they have better engagement in the shorter lifter bores of older blocks which helps high speed stability...

This thread is mis-named I've read the entire thread, and mainly it's been a compare/contrast discussion on chassis strength and rigidity. Selfishly, I'd like to hear from the road race/autocross veterans on how MII suspensions perform in relation to upgraded traditional suspensions in those...

Mesh grille cut and fitted.

Rear 3/4 view after filling & smoothing gas cap hole.

Body cancer cut out and patch panel made.

Patch completed and smoothed.

Yeah, it was pretty rough.

That's an old 27 x 10 x 15 road race rain tire in the rear just to check fitment. It has a 12.5" section width and tucks nicely in the mini-tubs.

Not the finished product, but it runs.

Fabricated gauge panel is 1/8" aluminum with holes cut on a chassis punch. Autometer speedo and Mallory gauges, which should give an indication of how long ago I started all this madness. Mallory discontinued their gauge line at least a decade ago.

Here are a few pics of the project so far. Most of it is body & paint since much of the mechanical work was done a few years back.

I should've signed up for StangNet years ago but, what can I say, I'm lazy. Just wanted to say 'hey' and I look forward to informative and interesting conversations with this great community.