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I haven't had a chance to drive the car yet since I did the seafoam but it seemed like there was somewhat better response afterwards. The idle also went back to a more reasonable level (used to idle around 1000rpm). As for what it does, it makes a very nice smokeshow. It's supposed to clean...

I decided to do a compression test on my stock 158,000 mile shortblock and I was wondering how these results looked. 1=180 2=180 3=170 4=170 5=173 6=175 7=172 8=170 The only significant thing that I've done lately is run a bottle of seafoam through the motor.

West Springfield here..

My power steering return line in my 88 is leaking at the swivel just above the connection point to the rack. I've been looking all over for this line, but all anyone has is just rubber hose. I need the actual metal line that you can connect the rubber hose to. Aside from taking one off of a...

The h-pipe that comes on your car is catted. Are you talking about aftermarket catted h-pipes? Off road h-pipes are the illegal ones. I run off-road pipes.

Maybe your driveshaft u-joints are shot.

I'm pretty sure that the 5.0 block plate is the same from 1979-1998 or around then. Soooo, since the number on your plate is from a 79 mustang, I'd say it'll work. I tried to find the box for my plate, but I guess it got thrown out. Here's another pic for the first guy for the order of the...

But I have pictures... :p Just noticed that 3/4 of the people posting in this thread are from MA. :rlaugh:

Here ya go, left side is AOD stuff and right side is T-5 stuff.

No, he was right. It's starter index plate. Flexplate is like the flywheel for the AOD. It's the thing the torque converter bolts to and the starter engages to start the motor. Damn, beat me to it.

The starter index plate is different from the AOD plate. You need to buy a new one. It'll be 50 bucks from ford. It goes between the block and the bellhousing. I'll try to find a pic later with the difference.

Just like the title says. I have dumps that end almost exactly at the rear axle and turn down and to the sides and I'm wondering if I can pass. The car is a 65 so I don't have to worry about emissions. Also, will having antique plates help me at all?

My brake line for the rear brakes blew the other day and I need to find a replacement for it. It is the hard line that connects in the engine bay, runs through the passenger side fenderwell, then runs the entire length of the car and ends at a block above the rear axle. I drove to mustangs...

It's underneath the throttle body. It'll probably be a torx style screw. If you look under your throttle body, you will see a screw that is perpendicular to the opening of the throttle body, the other side of it will be touching the plate that the cable connects to. You should give it a 1/2...

I'll be there, probably in the 88.

Sounds like your idle screw backed out a little bit. Give it a turn or two and see if that did the trick. Same thing happened with mine.

well, the old take off the retaining nut trick worked. Drum slid right off. Then I had the pleasure of beating the crap out of the studs and beating the crap out of some nice shiny new arp studs. :nice: One down, 3 to go. Any advice for putting new studs into the rear axles...I don't want...

DO I LOOK LIKE A MORON TO YOU!!! Err, no I didn't do that. I thought it would be like the rears, just pull em off :bang:

thanks, ill try that out

I've got a 65 mustang with drums all around and I'm trying to take the front drums off. Only problem is, they won't budge. Is there any sort of trick that I don't know of to get these things off. I've already tried the old beat it with a hammer trick, but that didn't even budge them. Its the...