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Among the things I really hate: after recovering the passenger bucket seat on my '68 Mustang, I installed it in the car (looks great) before realizing that I forgot to install the new black plastic handle on the end of the under seat adjustment lever (that lever that moves left/right to release...

Arrrrrggghhh. I installed a Grant classic wood steering wheel and the cast Mustang horn "button" in my '68 Mustang. The steering wheel installation worked out fine, but the Mustang horn button is simply crazy. Essentially, the separate instructions that come with the cast horn button say...

Yep, mystery solved. Turns out the new regulators I bought ten years ago are the type with the ball fittings at the ends of the arms; the type that calls for rollers with clips. I suspect the old regulators were the type that the rollers rivet to the regulator arms. So, the folks at the glass...

Hmmmmm, it seems the folks at the glass shop installed the ball-type regulator and plastic rollers but no clips at all, and I've never noticed those parts were missing. Thanks to all for helping me figure this out. I'll order new rollers and clips (to make sure they match) and replace soonest...

mtaqua: first off, sweet Harrier photo. I'll look into to clips, and thanks to your advice, if they need it I'll now know they can be reshaped. I'll try rebending the arms a bit too, but then leave the panels off for a bit to see if the window mechanisms stay together. Thanks.

iskwezem: nope, no clips that I can see. The ball end fitting appears to be swedged or welded onto the regulator arm, and the fitting simply pops into the plastic roller, which stays in the track. I'll look at the diagrams and see if there are clips that I'm missing...that might be part of the...

I was finally making progress putting the interior into my '68 Coupe restoration, but am now stuck. I can't button up the doors until I sort out the interior workings, and I could use some advice. I bought new regulators when the body came out of paint ten years ago, and asked a glass shop to...

Glad to hear my trials were of some use. Had I know how to use the forum all those years ago when I started this restoration, I would have avoided doing many things twice, and I'd be a lot further along in the project. Sigh.

Excellent, thanks! I'll try a quarter and hope for the best.

Yep, all better. Changing the flywheel ring gear addressed the damage I had done. Changing the starter to a longer snout has resulted in (so far) fifty starts without one hiccup. More careful readjustment of the clutch free play has eliminated the noise from the bellhousing. So, I'll call...

Perfect, thanks!

Excellent. Okay, since I have to get both caps back in business, out comes the upper control arm. But first, thanks for the photo above. I searched the Scott Drake website and found those zerk fittings. I'll be back in business in a flash. Thanks.

When I installed the TMC handling kit (20+ years ago) on my '68, I seem to recall reading about the option to cut the front coil springs to adjust the car's stance. While the car handles nicely, I've never liked the stance much, the front end a 1/2" higher than the rear (makes it look a bit...

The simple chore of lubricating the upper control arm in my '68 got a lot harder when I snapped off the forward 90degree zerk fitting during the disconnect. Damn. It looks like my control arms (replacement) are not quite centered in my shock towers (original), making the rear zerk fitting...

Thanks. Not agonizing, just making sure and trying to learn. The Mustangtek site seemed squared away, so I wanted to be sure before I discounted their citation. Case closed, it's a 302.

I didn't replace the throwout bearing, it only has about 100 miles on it and seemed in good shape. Since I last posted, I've readjusted the clutch free play and driven the car some, and the chirping noise has subsided. If it comes back, I'll pull the tranny again and investigate the input...

Interesting! I just rechecked Mustangtek and find that their listing for the -C revision shows 351W but has a small question mark icon beside it. If I understand this correctly, when I tear down the engine I could simply measure the stroke (bore would be the same for both 302 and 351, no?)...

Hmmmm, odd. Here is a photo of the distributor mount area, looks the same as the photos above, rising about an inch above the timing cover. When I measure across the intake manifold, from front inner corner of the left valve cover to the front inner corner of the right valve cover, it looks to...

Strange. After replacing the flywheel ringgear and starter, and subsequently reinstalling the clutch, tranny and drive shaft, the starting problem is fixed, but now I have an annoying "chirping" noise coming from the bellhousing. At first startup it was constant, but after readjusting the...

Unfortunately, the intake is an Edelbrock aftermarket add on, so no help there. I'll take a picture of the distributor boss tomorrow and load it here. If I'm reading the comments above correctly, it is not inconceivable that I have a 351 block and 3o2 head/intake/cam. Is that correct?