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Awesome, thank you very much!

I'm converting my 95 GT to all braided fuel lines and didn't mark the hard lines when I removed them. I'm not sure which port on the fuel rail is the feed line and which one is the return line. This is a stock fuel rail, and one port is bigger than the other.

No, I was told since I was re-using the same rods, crank, mains, and bolts that I wouldn't have to do that. Was I told bad information?

The HB and the flywheel are both new & balanced from 50oz. They were ordered from reputable places (American Muscle & Summit), is there a way to distinguish between 28 & 50oz?

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I just completed my first rebuild on my 95 Mustang 5.0 everything went pretty smooth and the car started right up and idled great. However, when I push the RPMs up I get a very bad vibration. This happens in neutral as well as driving down the road so that should eliminate anything to do with...

I posted the results of the balance test above, its all I've had time to do as I made very clear in my post. I was simply asking a question about the results of those tests and to see if there was any USEFULL information someone could give me. I'm not sure what sort of self satisfaction you got...

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I finally got around to pulling off the spark plug wires to see how it changed the idle. When pulling off the plugs one at a time, none of them seemed to make the knock go away, based on some research that makes it sound like the knock is in the top. Also, I noticed about a 200-250 RPM drop when...

I understand that I would not be doing the machine work. This is hypothetical that I am trying to learn the measurements on. If my crank has a rod journal of 2.123 and the rods themselves have a journal of 2.123 does that mean I can use the standard (stock) size bearings.

I would be rebuilding it myself, in the past I've used the same block/crank/rods so it wasn't really an issue.

So I've been doing some reaseach mostly out of curiousity about replacing the internals in my 95 Ford 302. The problem I'm having is deciding which bearings I will need for the crank & rods. The crank I'm looking into has a rod journal of 2.123 & a main journal of 2.248. My block is the stock...

Ok, I plan to go through your suggestions today after work. Obviously I would be pulling off the VC before I got too crazy with any other possible scenarios so if it is in the top in it should be relatively easy to find. I will let you know what I discover. Thank you for the help

I haven't used the stethoscope yet, plan to tomorrow. But when I put my hand on the valve cover I didn't seem to feel anything, but when I put my hand on the upper intake I could feel when whatever is happening happens. I'll let you know the results of the stethoscope, but could this mean...

I seem to have developed a loud knock in my engine. I posted a video in the link below and I know the valve train is chattering quite a bit, but its the loud single knock that I'm concerned about. Also, ignore the smoke, I had spilled some oil on the headers prior to start up. Any help would be...

SOLVED: Just wanted to post an update in case anyone comes accross this in the future. I was checking the power to the tps since it was one of the parts throwing a code and it wasn't getting juice so I traced the wires to a bolt together connection on the passenger firewall that wasn't snugged...

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I have a 95 Mustang GT with a newly rebuilt engine and it will just crank and not start. I have done quite a bit of research and there is no spark or power at the fuel injectors. I went through and replaced all ground wires and new power wire with 2 gauge cables. It is also worth noting that...

I have a similar situation and I contacted American Muscle/ Bama and they said they can tell the chip to ignore the automatic features. I haven't got it done yet, but I'm hoping it will be that easy. Have you had it done yet ratio411?

Yes I used plenty of lube. Also, all the caps were numbered and direction lableled so they for sure were not installed incorrectly. I am very sure that all the bearings were seated correctly as well. Also, I torqued the caps to 70lbs in 3 different increments. I think I have solved the problem...