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I'm interested in the "1967-1970 Mustang, Cougar Muscle-Z-Bar kit" he supplies (looks like high quality stuff), but he said they could only supply about half of the parts... Any one know if this kit from Cj Pony lists most of the parts I'd need for the linkage minus the pedal assembly/clutch...

Thanks for the reply. I sent them an email about my situation... They look like they deal with a lot of t-5, or tko conversions though. Are you sure they have products meant for toploader setups?

Hey guys, I know this topic has been covered many times, and to be honest I've probably read through most of the posts on the Internet involving this swap, but some info just isn't there... So I have a 67 coupe that I'm doing a I6 to v8 swap, also going from the auto to manual setup. I picked...

Just purchased a dynacorn driver's side full frame rail assembly (with aprons) from Cj pony and I am really pleased with the way it looks and the structural integrity it has. I'm only replacing the one side because the pass. side rail is only rusted near the radiator support... Just be sure...

Gonna have the engine shop magnaflux it, so if any are there they should be detected.

Short block

Bought a stock '70 351W block with DOOE heads yesterday. Should make for a solid rebuild.

Thanks for the input man. I found a guy with a complete 351w from 1970 that needs to be rebuilt for $250, so I think i'm gonna get it. From what I hear, the block from that year is strong and those DOOE heads are pretty good for street application. Your truck sounds awesome. I've always...

hmm. Theres alot for me to think about... I like the idea of having my car be a manual, but I think it'd be alot easier and cheaper getting an older c4 rebuilt like you guys are saying and put a shift kit on it. still alot to think about though haha

My rockers are solid (unlike a lot of things on my car as of now), so I'm sure they'll be able to take the weight. Luckily I only have to replace the driver's side framerail assembly, so I can use the other side that is already mounted to align the side that needs to be replaced. I just...

I'm about to embark on replacing the driver's side frame rail with one of those rails with the aprons and shock towers already built on. While replacing this, I'm also going to replace: both toeboards, floor support, torque boxes and a full 1-piece floor. I'd like to put the car up on stands...

My buddy got a complete rear end setup (no suspension) for his car with 575hp from Moser Engineering, that's kickass. They're pretty expensive, but you get what you pay for (a bullet proof street/track rear end ) when it comes to this company. Check them out, search around the site and see if...

Some more good info guys, I appreciate it. I'll be suspect of all used parts I go to buy. There's a really good engine tech shop in my town that I'll have check out everything before I have them start rebuilding. Thanks.

I think I'd be even more over my head with the AOD switch honestly haha. Just something to think about until it comes to that point I guess... but hey, I appreciate the info man

Sounds pretty good to me haha. Maybe I'll wait a little while longer until I can locate an older 351 that I can get rebuilt. I checked out that website and looks like it has a TON of good info. Any good aftermarket companies for automatics? Would it be anymore difficult to hook up an AOD...

Thanks rbohm. I'll have to start checking out local swap meets. ColinMAC, thanks for the reply. My budget is $3-4k, but Id need a running motor with that amount. I'm doing a v8 swap, so I really dont have any components for a v8. I'm leaning towards a 351w as of now... I can get a 351...

Thanks for the reply rbohm. I've assembled top end of motors before , but when it comes to the machine work I'd have to get the local shop to do that. I've been looking at procomp aluminum heads for $450 on jegs, but I'm guessing you get what you pay for when it comes to it. Just not sure if...

Gonna be another 3-4 months before the restoration on my car is done enough to get her back on the road, but I'd like to have a motor built in the mean time while I'm doing the work. - I'd like to have a MILDLY built motor with atleast 300hp. My budget is $4k (parts + labor), but I have to...

Forgot to mention also that the engine and tranny are out of the car. I guess that would be a big factor about the car being under less stress when doing this job.

I'm nervous about removing the whole floor and the car bowing. If i were to do this, what ways could i insure that any bowing or twisting won't happen?