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If the 96GT regulator is in the way, just remove it and block off the flange and then tee into the fuel line near the fenderwell and run a new line to an Aeromotive A-1000 regulator and hook the return line to the stock return line and run a sensing line to the manifold. Adjust it for 40 psi...

Centennialstang--Is your car a 2000 GT? Is the nitrous kit a dry kit or a wet one. Auto or stick? Who will do the tuning and how? The short answer is yes, you can run a 150 shot. But you have a returnless fuel system and you will have a lean spike if some changes aren't made, and it is...

If the weights of the parts are different from stock, you will need to have the crank balanced again. You also need to check the bore/piston clearance and hone the cylinder walls for new rings. In short, take the block and crank and your new parts to a good shop and let them check everything...

Yep, one car per XCal2. You get a specific tune file per car and XCal if you buy it from an SCT dealer like Modular Depot. Joe

You need a lot. This is with a 6800 rpm launch on a 150 shot on 28" ET Drags. Ain't going to happen on drag radials. Get your check book ready. Joe

Thanks, guys. I've run 10s at San Antonio, but not at this altitude. I've got some work to do to get it into the 10s at this altitude. But I'll make it. May not be this summer, LOL. Joe

At my home track last night, on a NX 175 shot, in poor air (4300 ft DA), still got the ride of my life in the little vert. Here is a video and then a grab frame from when a still photographer on the other side of the car triggered his flash.. video...

Regulator and lines, about $200, eFPC about $300, lots of pricing available for the '03 pumps. Not cheap. Joe

Added Zone V Performance eFPC electronic fuel pressure controller and an Aeromotive A-1000-6 mechanical regulator, teed into the fuel line, added a return to the tank. Set the regulator at 50 psi, told the computer that the pressure was low using the eFPC and the computer sped the pump up, then...

Check my post again. 13 on motor, 8 on the juice. I have run it at 10 on the juice, or 3 degrees retarded from where it ran best on motor. That isn't too much advance for a 150 shot, in my opinion.

When you put the timing adjuster on, stock timing is with the mark lined up at 10 degrees. If you set it at 15, it will be advanced 5 degrees. My 99 ran best on motor with it set at 13 degrees, or 3 degrees advanced. On the juice, I set it at 8 degrees. Joe

I have been running an NX kit for over a year. You need the purge solenoid and button. Also, make sure you change the plugs out to NGK TR-6 or Motorcraft AWSF-22C gapped at 0.035". Retard the timing 2 degrees for a 100 shot. Back off the low fuel pressure switch two turns so that it won't...

Okie dokey, hope it works out for you. Joe

I'm telling you that you must check the end play and make sure the driveshaft isn't in a bind. Do you think the output shaft bottoms out in the end of the yoke or do you think the yoke bottoms against a bearing in the trans? If the former, it doesn't matter what the length of the yoke is...

The J shaft is 45.5" center to center of the u-joints. Your stock drive shaft is 44.5", or one inch shorter. That is why you need 1-1/4" free play with your stock driveshaft before it bottoms out in the trans. Some people have it, most don't. Joe

The 96-98 Cobra driveshaft is an inch longer than the stock IRS driveshaft. It will bottom out in the end of the transmission if the stack up of tolerances is such that the pumpkin is too close to the trans. Some people have used the alum shaft with no problems. You can see if yours is a...