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Good luck! glad it was something so simple

I couldnt tell you the difference there, sorry. i havent had any first hand experience, just opening the box for a friend who put one in. as for the corral, i am pretty sure you use the existing one, and the running horse will have clips that will hold it in place once you snap it in

no problem!

if that helps, i dont know. anything is better than nothing, it might let you know if something got fried in the process at the very least. just, use proper tools and volt meter when/if you do that. dont be like me and lick your fingers, flick the key over, ground out the other hand, and wait...

i found mine between the spring and seat foam on the passenger bucket. needless to say, they threw the wherever, and itll be in sad shape if its still even with the car.

You should have the following voltages coming from these terminals with the key in the "on" position. Zero volts at "S" and about 8 volts at "I". Th "S" terminal is nothing more than the positive side of a wire wound electro magnet. The negative side of the winding is internally attached to the...

when you grabbed the t5 of the newer 5.0, did you take the flywheel and everything too?t here were two different imbalances used. All engines in the 90º-V family had a 28oz imbalance up to 1981. At that time it was changed to 50oz for the 302/5.0 but remained at 28oz for the 351W/5.8 while...

providing the wiring is intact and you have the corral that that snaps into, then yes it is a complete piece

Ive gotten complete carb rebuild kits off ebay and from Checker Oreilly. find a new mechanic would be a better bet. My .02 - that carb is an ok carb. its ok if they want to keep it totally bone stock. but for a bit extra economy and push when i wanted: i used a progressive stage weber from a 74...

look at it this way: your going from a 400/370ish 460lb engine, to a 700/610(at least) 550lb engine. at most, a 150 pound difference. seems to my blonde reasoning that that 150lbs is inconsequential when the torque increases so much. and itll be a crap ton louder too. straight line: go for it...

internals are going to be all forged, higher rate valve springs and cam from that ford v6 site. but my plan is very conservative boost for a while, i mean, more power= more air + more fuel. i wanna keep it as a cruiser, not mad power. at least, for now ;)

engine rebuild starts here shortly. will do!

notice any burning oil? white ish smoke in the exhaust is a sign. antifreeze or gas in the oil?? may be getting leaks into the oil from a cracked gasket. Are you running a mechanical oil gauge? a Sunpro mechanical OP gauge is a good bet right after a freshening up, better than the electric...

if you look at purely kevlar clutches, just make sure you check the fine print for kevlar content. many dont have 90+% kevlar content that modern drivelines claims to. Good luck!

nothing insane, i just want a unique cruiser. 200ish horse, but i want around 300 ft/lbs. stock numbers are 140/205

you sure the rockers will take it? mine punched through. ok, yeah they were rusty though

their kevlar/organic ones take that easily, full kevlar will take a lot more. organic is stock, kev/org is designed for extra grab and high heat tolerance from high performance applications. the Kevlar/Kevlar are made for long life and minimal wear with high performance, high torque...

just had the frame rails done on mine. make dang sure that car is level, buy a cheapie level if you have to and make sure your not at any sort of angle. under the back axle preferably is best, then passenger side front, look where the rail curves downward under the floor pan where it goes...

i use modern drivelines organic/kevlar clutches. albeit they are for racing and high horsepower applications. i have one on mine, and if you dont get stupid dropping the clutch, itll last a long time. they sell the clutch kits, with either just the disk, or the pressure plate, disk, throwout...