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I made a thread a few years ago with all the part numbers for all the items needed. Several people had replies with some good info as well. Sorry that the pics are no longer available. Original thread (from another site)...

I used the NPI gaskets also. Going on 3 years since the swap and no problems. I haven't really kept up with the forums a lot in the past couple of years, but seems like most people were going with the NPI gaskets at first. Not sure what changed. :shrug:

Is it really necessary to remove the dust shield on the strut like the directions say to? Since you have to reuse the factory bumpstop, I really don't see the purpose in it. I checked the directions for the Maximum Motorsports C/C plates, and since they supply a new bumpstop I could see why...

My vote goes for the pulleys. I've got a throttle body and I really didn't feel any difference after I installed it.

I've always had good luck with just the cheap Mercon/Dexron III ATF that they put in the transmissions from the factory.

They're cheap, so you might as well just have it replaced since everything will already be torn down. I think they're about $10 at most dealerships. I don't remember exactly, since it's been 2 years since I replaced mine.

Just buy the RTV. The stuff's only $3 a tube, which isn't much for a little more assurance that you won't have a leak.

Well, when I did the swap I compared the t-stat housing bolts to my old ones, and they looked the same, but I didn't argue with Randy Stinchcomb when he suggested that I get them. He can get you all of the parts that you haven't got yet, and fast too. People have modified the stock tube, but...

A friend of mine had the same problem on his 96 GT (squeaky tie rods). A guy at one of thel local alignment shops cut a small hole in the rubber boots and pumped them full of grease. He says they haven't squeaked since.

There's no way that'll work. First, it's probably hard to know exactly where that leak is coming from, so once again you're taking a gamble there assuming you know the spot. Secondly, if you're going through the trouble of draining the coolant (which you'll have to do) and taking all the other...

There isn't much that the book says, besides the diagram. And I don't know where this loosening idea came up, but I don't see why you'd want to LOOSEN the bolts and retorque them. The Haynes book says to torque the bolts, and retorque after the motor gets warm (NO LOOSENING). I have a...

Like ZEater said, the 96 water pump nipple iS NOT welded in, and buying the new nipple is still the best way to do the job IMO. But since you've already gone past that, I guess it doesn't really matter now. Also, as Zeater said, the PI gaskets might seal but it doesn't align with the coolant...

These cars don't have timing belts. I'm assuming you're talking about getting a new drive belt at 100k miles. :scratch: Back to the original question, I don't think you have anything to worry about as far as longevity goes. Think of how many Crown Vic police vehicles or taxis you see on...

It bolts to the driver's side head. The tube supplies coolant to the heater core. I bought the water pump for my year car ('96).

Well, it would be kinda of stupid not to change the o-ring. For one reason, you're going to have to remove the waterpump if you change over to the new style nipple, so you might as well change it while it's easy to get to; second, the factory o-ring has several thousand miles on it more than...

From what I've read, yes the crossovers are the same, minus the second factory drilled location for the ECT sensor. I almost bought a PI intake from a guy who said he swapped the crossover from his NPI intake to the PI one that he was selling. So take that FWIW.

Go here: http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=430490

Actually I remember seeing on thread on Corral or here a couple of years ago in which a guy dynoed his Mustang with one just for the hell of it. He actually LOST a few hp and some torque. :nonono:

Check out the 2005+ Forum. Also check out the forums on Brad Barnett's site. Here

Nope, no pics sorry. I kind of rigged it up one afternoon, and I'm fixing to redo it cause it has leaked a very small amount of coolant. I just drilled a hole in the top, then JB-welded a brass fitting for the sending unit into the hole, then screwed the sending unit into the fitting.