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Call Tim (cobrakiller) at Modular Powerhouse (T&J). He bought a pile of them as sone as the word came out that they were being discontinued.

I got mine from ford to fit a 98 f150 with a 4.6, they fit pertect and don't have the shoulder that stops the Magnaflow flange from thightening down properly. Yes I only had to do the drivers side.

If yours is like mine you have to remove the S/C bracket to get the belt off and on. I have a SQ trim on a 2001. The S trim and the T trim are the same way on 99 to 2004

Ya that's what I meant. Brain fart. lol

I believe the TB in 04 is an 85mm. The 01's are 80mm.

Mine fits with the Maximum 4 bolt plates. Don't know if the new Steeda plates are any larger than the maximum ones though.

My 01 dyno'd 187hp & 225tq when it only had a catback. That was on a Mustang dyno set at 3650lbs and 12hp at 50mph. Last year when I first installed my blower I dynoed my car on both a dynojet and a MD in the same morning. 308hp on the MD and 370on a dynojet. Comes out to 20% difference. So...

Not much to it and no you don't need to remove the springs in the front or rear. Just ensure the rear axle is supported when you remove the shocks and that the front A arm is supported with a jack which you can lower slowly after unfastening the strut. Do not just let them suddenly drop or there...

Here's a few pictures of mine. Click on the link in my sig if you want to see the details. Doug

Took one week, but they had the short block pre built and all the parts I wanted ready in advance.

No they are not wrong. If your alignment tech didn't drill out the rivets in your top plates to adjust your camber he doesn't know how to adjust the wheels on a Mustang. Just go out and look and see if your rivets have been removed. Download this file and it has some good pics that show the...

:stick: Incorrect!!!!..you cannot adjust castor, but you can adjust the camber...not alot but it does have some adjustment. You can't see it by just looking at it, you would have to take off the top plates to see that the holes in the strut tower are slotted. The old 3 bolt style c/c from...

Lowered it with 18cc pistons...running 12.5 lbs boost up here in the cool air. And ya I'm nuts...live 2560 miles from T&J

Like he said. Even if you bought a model of subframes that can be bolted in, take them to a shop and have them welded. The cars sheet metal is too thin to hold properly with bolts.

Running that kind of HP...yup just a matter of time:)

I would have to work it out as I had other work done at the same time. "Roughly" it would be around 6~7K for the engine with all the bells and whistles installed and tuned with a new clutch and flywheel and 42 lb injectors.

Yes. I'm surprised it's not pulling with the difference in your camber left to right. The insides of your tires will wear the quickest. When I first lowered my car my camber was at -1.4 and they brought it back to -.9 without plates. I ended up getting plates this year though because I wanted...

From what I can see all they did was adjust your toe in. They did't touch you camber, the .04 change in camber would be from changing the toe. Take it back or go somewhere else, they should be able to do better than that. Depending on how much you want to bring your camber back you may have to...

Had T&J Performance install a new forged block in my stang and tune it. Very pleased with the results. :banana: Here's a graph...details are in the link in my sig. Doug