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On my car I have a line from the manifold to a vacuum T, and from there one line has a check valve then goes to a vacuum reservoir and the other line goes to the EGR vacuum regulator. From the EGR vacuum regulator the second line goes to the EGR. I have this setup because I don't have A/C nor...

Also, in reference to post #5, I'll identify what's what between the three switches/solenoids to help you simplify things. The top thing is the EGR vacuum regulator. The top line (I believe it is gray from factory) goes to the EGR. The bottom line leads back to the upper intake manifold, but...

This should help you very much, as it helped me out alot with my car. When I bought my '89 LX, the the vacuum lines were A MESS. The EGR was hooked up to the PCV and a few lines were left uncapped. Vacuum leaks galore! It didn't help that my lower manifold gasket seemed to be sucking in air as...

I'll check this again. I've looked at this diagram and a few more to verify that yes, the computer should always have power at pin 1. Thank you for the information and diagrams.

I have verified that pin 1 has power while in run. I'm more than sure that the EEC relay is fine, as all of my injectors and everything else that is powered by the red wire from pins 37 and 57 have power while the key is in run. I fixed a torn wire by my starter solenoid today. There is a...

Reporting back! I made a list of what to check and here's what I've found. Pin 1 - dead with key OFF, but has power with key in RUN (KOEO). I'm going to test this again today to verify this. I don't feel this is right, anyone have some input on this? I'd appreciate if someone could test this...

Thank you very much! I'll make a list of what to check and post my results.

Here's some shots of my EEC.

This may help. http://www.hotrod.com/articles/setting-pushrod-length/

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/51495/10002/-1 https://lmr.com/item/LRS-6086AK/1979-95-Mustang-Cylinder-Head-Smog-Plugs-for-50L-58L

When I installed my high torque starter I was going to do just that, then I realized that doing just that is not necessary. I created a jumper wire between the large stud and the smaller stud. Use at least 10 gauge wire.

Just tested all of the pins AT the EEC connector with the KOEO. Pin 1 (KAPWR) - dead Pin 2 Pin 3 (VSSDIF +) - dead Pin 4 (IDM) - power Pin 5 Pin 6 (VSSDIF -) - good Pin 7 (ECT) - dead Pin 8 Pin 9 (MAFRTN) - dead Pin 10 (ACCS) - dead Pin 11 Pin 12 (INJ 3) - dead Pin 13 (INJ 4) - dead Pin 14 (INJ...

I've also tried starting the car with the SPOUT connector removed. Nothing.

In reference to this... https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/cranks-ok-but-no-start-checklist-for-fuel-injected-mustangs.787471/ No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability: A) I do not have an ignition box. B) My PIP sensor is functioning. C) All wires coming...

In reference to this... https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/cranks-ok-but-no-start-checklist-for-fuel-injected-mustangs.787471/ No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability: A) I do no have an ignition box. B) My PIP sensor is functioning. C) All wires coming out...

I'll snap some pics later and post them. Thank you, I hope the description was adequate. I did not use that checklist, but I've already gone over many of the steps on it with my own testing.

I'd also like to add that I did a self EEC check to see if I could pull any codes and I saw NO flashes. I have a check engine light with the EEC plugged in. My EEC is an A9P (Ford PN E9ZF-12A650-C2A).

Hello! This is my first post on StangNet. I've done plenty of lurking and searching to find lots of helpful information, this place is amazing! Before someone posts "Search it.", I have. Please read on. My car (1989 5.0 LX) has been having lots and lots of electrical issues. I've come to what...