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Thank you for the reply.

In your situation it works out. I'd imagine that if need be you would be happy to use leaf springs if the three link never came to be? In my case, and presumably for the others that dropped their pre-order, I'm in it for the three link. I see avoidance in that area and that honestly concerns...

Fox body double hump style.

Sorry, I have to apologize in advance for this. I must be in a mood today, but dayum...:rlaugh: That's a lot of instruction reading for the installation of a "rudimentary component". :rolleyes: Again, I'm sorry. :shrug:

All I wanted was a picture or some note of progress of the TriLink in the months that have passed since March of this year. The answer to the drop in interest is held within your comment. I'm not a huge fan of fora discussion and debate myself. Seeing how your main advertisement for your...

My only arguement for aluminum vs. steel, and a point that thus far has not been mentioned, is fatigue cycles. Without that consideration I would agree that the strength would be the same.

I'd rather they take their time, then to release poorly engineered parts. I've been waiting for the three link for almost a year now. By waiting I mean my car is sitting in my garage and could be completed right now had I not chosen to wait. I'm very frustrated that they haven't released...

Steve, If you need to pull the caliper inward but can't machine the adaptor you can mill the caliper bracket a good 1/2". When I adapted Cobra brakes to a MII spindle that is what I had to do. What I ended up with was Granada rotors turned down to make hubs. I used the factory wheel mounting...

I wouldn't use it for drag racing due to shock loads. If you do intend to abuse it drag racing don't use slicks. Other wise they are good up to 700 hp. The Black Gold's are rated even higher. I can't see shelling out that kind of doe when other options are available for a third the cost...

Because I bought only the parts I could not make easily, substantially saving a grip of cash to the tune of approx. half of what a kit costs. Plus I wanted parts that were not included in a "kit", It wouldn't make sense to buy the "kit" only to bin half the parts and replace them with better...

Oh, one more note fit the engine and the headers you plan to use in the engine compartment prior to determining the column length. A stock column tube measures 34 inches in length. For reference my column is approx. 27 inches. What engine do you have and what headers do you intend to use...

If you go here; http://totalcontrolproducts.com/download/instructions/7903-COLM-04.pdf You can see how ICP did it. Here's a HotRodded version; http://www.tperformance.com/category_pics/slimline_easy-angle_floor_mount.jpg Another HotRodded version...

Nope. It sounds like alot of work, but if you have the materials on hand it only takes a few hours to do. The biggest obstical is to make the bearing adapter. R&C sells a bearing adapter/bearing kit. For that matter they sell an entire steering kit. But it cost more then I wanted to pay and...

You need to adapt the steering column to house a bearing on the lower end. I puchased a chunk of T6 aluminum on eBay for a few dollars and made an adapter. There was no available bearing that had the correct outer diameter and the correct inner diameter so you have to make a sleeve for the...

Bump, last time.... :worthlesb

Oh, I'm 6' and fit fine.

Leg room is fine, its head room that is less. You sit a little higher.

Any new updates?

http://www.rcmotorsports.net/index.html

You can order any part you want seperately from R&C. I only bought the crosmember the upper and lower A-arms and the coilovers. The rest I either made or bought elsewhere.