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That is exactly the way it is tuned. It was tuned with the kit installed. I didn't want a water/air cooler (e.g. intercooler) If the pump malfunctions, the engine won't detonate. I'm not looking for big horse power numbers neither does my tuner. The keyword is SAFE. Of course , I know there...

Mine is after the IAC. I use isopropyl alcohol. I don't have two tunes. It starts spraying at 5 psi. I am running 8 psi of boost. I have the snow kit for insurance against detontation. I am not pushing the limits of the stock engine. My tuner did 15 back to back dyno runs and it did not...

Also consider if the spare donut tire will fit the front wheels with after market upgraded brakes. ------------------------------------------- 3X black premium 2k1 GT 5 speed ragtop Drive Train: FMS 3.73 gears, Vortech SQ, AFM powerpipe, FMS aluminum D/S, Steeda shifter, 80 mm MAF...

With the vertech SQ add a cooler, perferabilty a water to air. This will put you at 400 rwhp with a safe tune. I would not go over 400hp. You can add a snow water injection with the cooler to add an extra layer of safety, of couse the tune is very important. I have a snow water injection...

No mufflers are a bad thing. You need some back prerssure.

BF Goodwich KD or Nitto 555 front and NITTO DR on rear.

H pipe for me. The MRT with cats. I will not give-up the sound of an H pipe for the X. X sound like a Ferrai, I want the sound of good old american muscle.

I really like the tips on your car. Here's a pic of my Steeda system.

Do you want payments? Or do you want to buy a car for 12,500. If payments, then the Mach I should be considered. Maybe a 2003 with low mileage. Be sure to do a carfax before buying any used car.

I prefer the H-pipe because of the sound.

Steeda removed the drone.

I have the steeda, and like them very much. There is no drone. They are made by Borla, but are different than actual Borlas. The comment about the Steeda etching rusting hasn't happen yet but I've only had them for about four months. I've heard the etching fades, but this is first I've read...

I'm happy with my nitto's (see sig). But with high h/p any tire is going to lay rubber, when heavy on the pedal.

The 94/95 had the 5.0 engine and same body style as the 96 to 98. The 5.0 has a very large after market parts availablity.

If you are wondering about the red and green light, it is for the water injection. It goes green at 5 psi, indicating it's spraying. Red means resovoir is low.

No drone with my steeda catback.

Water injection. Since the motror is forged you can up the timing and cool the intake air. I'm happy with mine, kept the timeing at 14 degress. Went to 16 with no issues, but I want to play it safe. I'm waiting for the C and L lower intake to go with my upper plenum. Woo whoo.

You mean these? <img src="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-1/82254/wheel.JPG" width=528 height=552> <img src="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-1/82254/side_view3.JPG" width=736 height=345>

Yeah, Steeda calls it an adaptive tune. But as I discovered one sizie does not fit all. The Steeda flash is great if the tuner can make changes to it. That is very important.

I dropped the Steeda tune for the SCT tune. The process is the same for all tunes (Diablo, Steeda, SCT). The tuner must have access the either the computer (Steeda) or the chip (Diablo,SCT) to make changes. When I got the Steeda tune the SCT was not available. I had issues with the Steeda...