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As you move the strut won't it change length to compensate for the angle. The strut won't pick up the vehicle or let it lower because the spring is supporting the vehicle weight and controlling ride height. I can't believe you could have that much adjustment for camber or caster to affect ride...

Stock front rotors are interchangable. The only pproblem is if you switch them without machining them you may create a brake pulsation because they had mated to the pads.

Your springs control ride height. If the bushing was worn the strut would just lenghten or shorten to compensate but the ride height would be controled by the springs.

Could have a leaking injector. Is the engine running too rich? Look at the O2 voltage. Sounds like to much fuel is entering the combustion chamber an running down passed the rings.

Nitrous!!!!!!!!!! I went 3.73 but most will tell you to go 4.10/4.30/4.56. Depends on you driving wants. I have done all the mods you list and the only ones I could really feel were headers and the gear change. You just do all the rest so that together they make a diffrence but by themselves...

I would not use the anology that if the car does not have stock air tube then it has been beat on. I have mods and I don't beat on the car.

I have had mine for 4 years and no major problems, only 36K. Just go over the car like you would any used car.

I have BBK LT and Catted H-pipe. Huge difference over stock. Best mod besides gears I have done to the car. They are not CRAP. So don't go back to that shop.

I had the Mac CAI and ran into problems with the engine running very rich do to the 90 degree bend before the MAF. 11:1 on the dyno. I guess some people rotate the MAF to fix the problem but I just went to a K&N FIPK and got back to a 12:1 A/F. Just my 2 cents.

Interesting. My 97 does this. I thought it was "Memory Steer" which is cause by frozen lower ball joints. I feel like it was never there, I noticed it when I put the car back on the road after last winter. I checked ball joints, strut bearings, tie-rods, tire pressure, and did an alignment...

I spent some time looking at different control arms and bought the ones you are interested in. I just got the lowers at the time because I want to get adjustable uppers to set the pinion angle. I liked that they were tubular and chrome moly. The fit and finish were excellent. Did I notice a...

I have had the timing adjuster for two years. It is very hot today and I think do to expansion the mag-pickup got to close to the wheel and broke off. Has this happened to anyone before from heat? Thanks

I have had the timing adjuster for two years. It is very hot today and I think do to expansion the mag-pickup got to close to the wheel and broke off. Has this happened to anyone before from heat? Thanks

How is filling an auto trans hard? If you are refering to the flush where they attach the machine to the pressure and return lines for the cooler I would not reccommend that. Particles can become dislodged and cause problems aka rebuild. It happened to me on a previous vehicle I owned.

GIVE ME A BREAK DTMACH1. I CAN'T BELIEVE YOU COULD NOT REALIZE I WAS REFERING TO A CAI THAT EXTENDS INTO THE INNER FENDER WELL!!!

Just check that all the pan bolts are snug but don't over tighten. The gasket can relax over time. Then clean the area with brake clean and drive the car to isolate the leak. The pan gasket may be worn out which isn't that hard to replace.

Ya I sold my CAI and got a K&N FIPK. Had trouple with the CAI pipe bends and the MAF.

Pressure test the coolant system just incase you have an external leak. If not do a cylinder leak down test to see if the head gasket is blown.

Knock sensor should retard timing if there is an octane issue. Just don't whale on it.

No special orientation. The banjo has a cavity in it so fliud will find the hole. I just coat the back of the pads with Hi-Temp Disc Brake Grease