Search results

Hi All - been a while since I posted here. Greetings again. My 99 SVT has AC problems, and this is not a good time to have them here in Alabammy where it's 105 in the shade! Basically, the system has been charged with 3 cans of R134 refrigerant (55psi), and the compressor "short cycles" when...

A certain amount of clunking, and "slop" in the driveline of these cars is definitely par for the course. If you're getting all kinds of noise when downshifting, it sounds like your clutch may not be disengaging fully. If that checks out fine and the noise persists, drive it till it falls...

Hmm - I don't see a lower oil ring in that picture. Did it get chewed up? Or was it just plain omitted? that's stupid as hell!

You'd be less likely to break an ear off the differential if you heated the mounting ears (bosses) with a torch and put the bushings in the freezer to maximize the thermal expansion of the housing...you should be able thereafter to drop the bushings in with a little oil and a whack or two with a...

that all looks pretty good, actually.

It will help "a little", and the install is a total pain in the ass. The biggest problem is getting the old bushing material out of the shells in the subframe. I used a combination of grinding and burning them out. Still took me an entire day. Getting the new bushings in is easy, once all...

It "looks" like the FRPP shaft. FRPP uses the weld on end caps like the picture of that one there. Steeda doesn't specify whether or not it will fit IRS cars. It's certainly more expensive - the FRPP J shaft is 155 bucks from gene evans ford (www.gefracing.com). Call Steeda and see if they...

If you have no vibrations at any speed now with the aluminum shaft, you "shouldn't" have any after new gears if you take extra care to line it back up with the output shaft and the pinion flange just like you have it now. About the fit issue, some cars DO actually have a problem with the fit...

The FMS "J" shaft will probably fit your car. It won't fit an 01, since the transmission is longer, but there will likely be 1/4" of clearance between the rear extension housing and the slipyoke. Get it and try it. The worst that can happen is that you'll have to take it to a COMPETENT shop...

They have them available in the FRPP catalog.

The IRS w/4.10 should be ok for a while, unless you're launching on slicks. Upgrade all the bushings! The only thing to really minimize the wheel hop in the IRS cars is to replace the LCA bushings with delrin, the IRS subframe bushings with poly, and firm springs and shocks. The solid or...

Also, the PCM doesn't lean out the mixture from warm-up mode below 175 degrees or so, so it'll always run rich....unless you can chip to allow for it. I think the thermal expansion of the block, etc. is probably "close enough to go" around 160, so if you can chip to run the optimum fuel...

Yessir - daily and everywhere fun car.

That looks just like mine. I can't remember which bushings were where, but I believe the 10mm were on the bottom and I used the 15mm on the top. It doesn't matter how much the strut nuts were torqued - you can remove the strut from the car and move the bushing manually by inserting something...

They started doing this about 1 month after installation (this is a street car). It's gotten progressively worse.

Anyone have a problem, like me, with the bushings on the strut mount of the CC plate making a bumping/clunking noise when the wheel is turned (as the strut angle changes)? The bushing really stick and are hard to move - when they do move, the "give way" and a popping results. I e-mailed Pro3...

LOL - do it yourself! I SWEAR it was worth every minute of the install for decreased rear-steer, more predictability, etc. It will increase NVH a small amount, and if you already have vibes, don't count on a reduction! But, if you're looking to reduce movement of the subframe under harsh...

Yep - go ahead and get those babies installed. You'll love them.

I have to disagree. I installed the IRS subframe bushings in my car, and it was the best mod yet for overall driveability. Yes, they were a pain, but definitely worth the effort. Best 50 bucks I've ever spent.

I think either the races aren't seated, the bearing isn't seated against the head, or you've tightened it too much. Usually, the torque of getting the preload correct is enough to pull the bearing all the way on and seat the pinion races completely - if you replaced them at all. If not, I'd...