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Then again, maybe it wasn't harsh. :lol:

You're right, maybe that was a bit harsh. :(

That deiseling you hear is probably PTV contact. BTW, the valve heads are hardened....not the valve stems. You WILL bend a valve. You will not be able to see this or bearing damage with a borescope. Oh and FWIW, I personally installed everything on my car, and I happen to design Ford...

I'm pretty sure your gauge is still in the air flow with the cage as well. That is to say that the air is blowing on the back of the gauge. I don't think there is any sort of "close-out panel" used with the cage. It's basically a couple of flat plates and brackets. And if I recall correctly...

It's not any different than the 'gauge cage', right? I mean, that design has sold thousands upon thousands of units, with little complaints. This design takes that idea and makes it much simpler. This design doesn't require any chopping or cutting or bolting, etc. for installation. It's just...

Yes, the vent will flow plenty of air, actually more than the "cage". The cross-sectional area of the openings in this design is approx. twice that of the 'cage'. Directional control is always the trade-off with the VentPod. There isn't any good way around it unfortunately, not without a...

I think they'd also look better with a higher quality finish, painted to match. The S197 pods didn't strike a chord right away either, but now Roush is selling them like hotcakes.

still installing ;)

Here's a couple more showing the ease of installation...

A new twist on an old theme.... Your thoughts?

LOL!! I was thinking the same thing when I read the op. Don't forget the light blue chevy small blocks of the late 70's thru the 80's, and then they went with black. However, that was not for power, LOL! It actually was so that the service techs could trace oil leaks better when using the...

Maybe you should go with black, 'cause according to some yahoo on another board, black blocks make like 10 more hp than any other color. LOL!! Seriously, this is what the guy claimed. Anyhow, your best bet for a clean job is to pull the engine out and do a real good job on the taping off...

I don't know....Jerry did mine, and he simply removed the 1-2 and 2-3 lower accumulator springs and left the upper springs and pistons stock. Worked great.

True, but only to a point. You could make them out of diamond, but if the hole's size and location tolerances aren't held tightly (cost goes up with the degree of accuracy), all you have is an expensive paperweight.

In the tranny, just above the v/b.

Capt., You can install any gauge you like in that VentPod, as long as it's the standard 2 1/16" style. If you have any question about it, don't hesitate to PM me. ;)

Good call, CobraRed... When I did my J-mod, we left the 1-2 lower accumulator spring out. Couple that with a nice, firm 1-2 shift command in the SCT tune, and I have immediate shifts. So much so that even the manual guys that drive my car comment on how fast it shifts. Don't get me wrong...

Question is, what exactly does a woman in the 5% percentile look like dimensionally. Most of you probably have nothing to worry about, right?

Brian is absolutely right. But even if you bring the ratio back into line, all you've really done is thrown a couple hundred bucks out the window. You've lost a great deal more power than you thought you would have gained by installing those pulleys. U/D's on the modulars is good for 7...

The only issues with the cooling passage for this swap is with the aluminum blocks, not the "Terminator" ('03/04 Cobra) blocks. It'll be a direct bolt on where heads are concerned.