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I just did this install and it was easy as pie. Do yourself a favor and purchase the U tools (for removal) for $3.99 at Walmart. I bought the $40 harness with the gain adjustment but the signal kept cutting out so I just bypassed the stupid little gain box and it works fine. I shouldve got a...

It all depends on the type of deal you could swing too. A 99+ would be nice, but you have to find the right deal. If you want to stay mostly stock then just buy a 99+ and throw on the simple bolt-ons. If you're looker for more performance down the road and a cheaper initial buy price then go...

Out of those two choices I would say Cobra Rs...just damn sexy on a SN95. Im not really a Bullit fan. Now another option would be some 18" Saleens.

Hmm, any pics?

The R hood is a great choice and yes I would probably run pins. As for your stock hood I would just sell it...you might be able to get $50 for it. Or if you want, just store it safely in your garage (just in case anything happens to your new R hood or if one day you decide to go back to stock)

I just got done doing a Mobil 1/Motorcraft FL1A oil change for $23, much better than the $60 synthetic change at the garage with the generic crap filter :)

I dont trust any of the garages either, too many horror stories, too many scratches...no thank you. My car has seen nothing but Mobil 1 in it's life. I can usually do a full Mobil 1 oil change for around $23. Most of the shops around here want 50-60 to do it. The regular oil changes are at...

You serious bro? You changed your balancer and you dont know how to change the oil?? Its only two drain bolts and a filter.

3 hours is definitely too long for a boost gauge and electrical FP gauge...especially for a professional who is supposed to know how to do the job quick and right. There's no such thing as "extra time just in case they f-up" Theyre professionals, they should know how to do the job quickly and...

Mine and my buddy's were aluminum too. Looks like it's both then since some people have a steel one.

Just make sure you bring doughnuts too!!

That would be interesting, I would be curious to see that too. Obviously you would need SBFs at the minimum with the lack of a roof.

Exactly my point...I'm sure the florida50's gauges are accurate, but they look like total crap! I'm not feeling the digitals as much either. So far the nicest gauge setup is the Roush/Autometer/Simco one they make for the 99-04 stangs. It also much cheaper.

I dont like any of them, especially the Florida50s one...it looks shoddy, something that a 17 yr old redneck would rig up :notnice:

As long as you get the socket harness (from the back of the 96 tails to the taillight housing) you should be good to go. Direct plug in.

It is definitely something that can eventuall go and not work at all. Take care of it ASAP.

You're absolutely right. Brand new mustangs with good u-joints dont vibrate from 90mph-up. I actually swapped out the u-joints in my stock DS on my fox and it cured my sloppy vibration problem. Replacing the u-joints can be a pita though. I also want to add that sometimes a DS can get out of...

I would at least get the fuel pressure/boost gauges and ignition before anything else. Something with a boost retard option in the cockpit. Other than that you should be good to go with the other components you listed. If you have a stockish clutch you may want to upgrade that sometime down...

I'll probably install mine this winter, I dont have the door fillers either..not sure it might look better without..

Hmmm, interesting..so the 94 black is similiar to the 90-93 fox body black?