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That kinda sounds like what happened to me when i was driving an 86 w/ carb'd motor that was pretty freshly built - the problem turned out to be that the distributor gear that was on the MSD distributor (both new) broke the little pin that holds the gear on the shaft. It probably had about 500...

for the AOD, don't forget to take into account a lockup vs. non-lockup converter. the 2400 rpm may be right w/ a lockup converter, but w/ a non-lockup, you may be looking at closer to 2600.

i ordered stock bushings from autozone b/c i was in a hurry - I have poly in the other locations so i know have the stock rubber in the axle housing is a mis-match, but seems ok for now. They came with the metal sleeve and i got them in about 3 days i think.

as far as oil getting forced out of the seals - are you sure you have adequate crankcase ventilation? If you have a couple breathers i would think that the extra pressure generated during full throttle would vent thru the breathers. Your PCV system may be too restrictive. As far as oil on...

that looks like an aftermarket piece to me - i've never seen a lightning shortblock but i'm pretty sure the stock pistons are nothing special - probably the factory "4 eyebrow" design. If i was a bettin man - i'd say those are def. not stockers.

you need a 3k stall converter, and then you'll blow the tires off the rims

they make bearings for .030 under - but most machine shops do not recommend using these. You have a higher chance of spinning a bearing if they get too thick, i think. YOu can polish the rod journals if they are not scored up. A lot of machine shops will give you a stock crank for not too...

I also think its a timing issue. The 94-95 gt's are notorious for spinning the outer ring on the balancer - that means that you're timing is going to be off. I think that when they spin, when you set the distributor on the desired setting, you actually have more advance than you want (i.e. 15...

glass beads in motor = rod knock in about 20 miles. It's pretty much impossible to get all of the beads out w/ out a severe cleaning. Bad idea.

the front will be dropped a bit more than a 5.0 b/c of the added weight (looks cool actually). You may have trouble w/ wheel hop b/c of not having the quad shocks. A lot of guys say that aftermarket control arms or southside bars will take care of that. The frame is drilled for the bracket...

i'm grasping here, but do you have an aftermarket shifter? If you do, and you set the stops incorrectly, even though the gear engages, it's not totally seated as deeply as it should be. If you do have an aftermarket shifter, try backing the stops off a couple turns, and then see if you have...

they can be good castings if you are on a budget. The fact that someone went to the trouble to put the larger valves in and decent springs is a good sign, b/c that is typically what can cost some dough. They should flow about 180 cfm on the intake even w/o porting, which is definately an...

my vote is low trans fluid.

imo , 500 hp may be right at the limit of stock rods, IF you use good rod bolts, and possible side-polish (to remove stress-risers) and shotpeen the rods. I've seen new I beam eagle rods on ebay for around 220 (they list in summit for 310) and considering the money you would spend re-doing...

if you swapped intakes, did you re-use your injectors, or did you go w/ new? I put a rebuilt 3.8 in my parents taurus last summer, and had the motor freshened up at a local machine shop. When i dropped it in, it ran like crap, and the 02 sensors were throwing a code. Turns out they do that w/...

IMO, you should go w/ a larger intake. The TW heads i believe will flow in the 250 cfm range which is quite a lot, and i think the intake won't go over 210 or 220. In addition, i'm pretty sure the TW heads are closer to a 1262 than a 1250 gasket, but i'm not sure about that. I would do a...

that's definately a different approach! Looks good - but wouldn't it have take less time with a die grinder considering you had to build the jig? Just proves that there is more than 1 way to skin a cat. I'd be interested in seeing the fabricated upper when you are finished.

there should be a lot of posts on 4 cyl swaps. There are a lot of details you should pay attention to if you are trying to go fuel injected. If you are going carb'ed, pretty much what you see is what you get, and you should be able to work your way thru. Once you get working, you should post...

should be okay. i've heard .060 isn't smart on a 302. With nitrous, the block will probably split down the mains before you have any problems with the cylinder bores.

I also don't think lift is your problem. my guess is there is 3 tenths to be had w/ traction, and 2-3mph in tuning. To be honest, with an 85 that should be kinda light, you should be looking at easy 13.20's. Have you checked your total timing? What about jetting? I would think total...