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Yep, I had a 70mm that whistled really bad at idle.

If I lived way up north like you do, then I'd consider it; however, being in Alabama, I wouldn't own a car without it.

You can be serious, are you? Sorry to break it to you, but not having a cap on the throttle cable is not going to throw a CEL code. That must have been just a coincidence.

That thing is cool!!! Cam lift. . . 107/117 :lol:

I used the stock TKO shifter with a tri-ax handle for a few thousand miles and then switched over to the Tri-ax shifter. The Tri-ax felt a bit more solid, but it didn't help with the crappy 2-3 shift. I ran a Tri-ax for years on my T-5 and loved it.... and NEVER missed 3rd gear.

I've already messed with different clutch cable adjustments, but I haven't thought about shimming the pivot out. I did, however replace my pivot ball and clutch fork just before swapping to the TKO, so I know those items are up to par. I'm pretty comfortable that the clutch is fully...

I bought a used MSD Pro-billet for my 418w and have put 7,000 miles on it with zero problems.

It depends on if you want nice shiny ones or not. If you don't care how they look, you can pick them up at most hardware stores. It's just a 2" long 5/16-18 bolt, if I'm not mistaken.

I don't get it. :scratch:

You don't have to remove the headers to pull the bell housing. You only have to loosen up the driver side header from the head by running the header bolts out about a 1/4". I ran MAC 1-5/8 on my 302 and now I run BBK 1-3/4 on my 418 and that's all I had to do.

I bought my TKO500 in Spring 2006 and it has never shifted well at high RPM's. Third gear is near impossible to hit in a racing situation. Now that I have learned to granny-shift 3rd, I can usually hit it, but when I try to shift quickly (not power shifting) I porobably hit 3rd 20% of the...

I have to use spacers with my skinnies in order to clear my 13" Baer brakes. I use a 5/16" spacer and my fronts are 15x3.5 with a 1.75" backspacing.

Well, apparently you didn't notice this, so I might as well point it out to you. . . He's running skinnies up front, so I'm sure changing the track width is not a big issue to him. When running such a small tire up front, you can pretty much throw good handling out the window, so any...

I guess that all just depends on how much you like pulling leaking intakes and reinstalling them. :shrug:

I use black for everything.

I apply a thin coat around the water jackets on both sides of the gaskets and immediately place the gaskets on the heads and position them. I then run the bead of RTV across the front and back of the lifter valley and let them all cure for about 20 minutes before I place the lower inatke on.

Yeah, if your little picture is a true depiction of what you got, then someone at the parts store screwed you. both mounts should have the exact same angle since the K-member never changed between the two body styles.

That's BS. I pulled a motor out of my '91 convertible and dropped it in my '88 coupe with no issue at all and no change to the motor mounts. I also just dropped a 418w in the same coupe using brand new convertible mounts from O'Reilly with no problems at all. There was obviously something...

Are all the intake ports off the same amount? If so, I'd trim the head gasket tabs and just position the intake gaskets by sight -- I always put a light coat of RTV around the water jackets which would also serve to hold the gasket in place while intalling the intake. As far as the water...

:nice: