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FAQ Not any more.

Pretty good price for a long block.

No, it's not a thread lock product, it is a sealant. Thread lock will only leak. Thread lock meaning products such a loctite (lock-tight)

Drop by a Ford dealership and go to the parts department. Tell them you want the red sealer that goes on flywheel bolts. That is the correct sealer to use. I replaced my flywheel bolts with new factory ones, and they came with the red "sealer" already applied... and it was already fairly...

If, after adding the K&N, and it still doesn't shift into 3rd until it gets warm, you might want to tighten your intermediate band before taking it in for an overhaul. That band is tightened to 120 in. lbs. then back off 1 3/4 turns counter-clockwise.

I am being attacked. "You’d do well not to pick a technical related fight with me. You are just barely worth the time, and I'll make you pack your lunch. I can’t tell if you need a reading comprehension course or a psychiatrist." What have you done to stop these attacks by members out of...

Yeah, with 80 you will be good to go. When you get a flat fixed the shop just uses the air compressor pressure to seat them, and that most likely varies a lot from shop to shop. I went out and seated mine to 85, and I had to use a lot of torque wrench to get them there. Thay ain't coming off...

OK, well, it's for sure the wheels aren't going to fall off. :D

Here's another chart, but these sound a little too much to me. https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html#torque

"I can’t tell if you need a reading comprehension course or a psychiatrist." Craig, I don't want to stir up any trouble because we are actually brothers in arms here with working on our classic mustangs. But your assumption that I either need to have a reading comprehension course or a...

Agreed, the damage is beyond repair, and the leaking won't go away without a rad replacement.

The one wire from Summit doesn't work? Any proof in that statement? How does the el cheapo small case G3 differ in quality?

Often times we refer to the alternator with the built in VR as a one wire. I am referring to the three wire with the built in VR. Going this route is the way to get more Amps from the alternator to help support the electric fan's requirements for voltage at idle.

Yeah, I believe recoring is cheaper than a new rad, and rodding is the last resort for most cores, but a new one will last a lifetime, and so that is the route I would go. It's just a gut feeling and experienced judgement call.

All electric fans pull amperage off your alternator, and that is why it is necessary to upgrade your alternator that was not designed to have to run these fans. If you want to run electric, you are just simply going to have to upgrade your stock alternator. May I suggest a single wire 100 amp one?

Brand is not an issue with copper core rads. Just get a 4 row radiator from any Mustang vendor. Now, if you are going aluminum, that is another story. At any rate, you need a new radiator.

If the upper and lower control arms have a grease zerk to grease the ball joints that is what you need to do. Otherwise, drill it, tap it and insert a 90 degree zerk so you can grease them.

I usually am not turned on by any of the aftermarket 17X8 wheels, but those CL-205's are a really good looking wheel. They don't jump out at you like most do. Good choice.

Steel wheels torque is 85-105. Aluminum will be about 20 lbs. less.

Stick with the subject This thread has absolutely nothing to do with 4:11 gears. I am informing members here that they can get a ton of information by the addition I have made to the upper section. Please quit robbing this thread. If you want to talk about gears, then start a new thread.