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What is this about a weight in the vert's wheel well?

You may run into tranny problems if you try and launch on the spray (i'm actually antcipating ripping mine to pieces :() Your engine should be fine up to about a 150 shot, assuming you can maintain a decent A/F ratio.

Zaino > *

13:1= A:F 13 parts air per one part fuel.

Absolutely not. 15:1 is lean for the 4.6 liters. Ideal for an na car is 13-13.5:1. 15:1 and he'll see some high-end detonation. On a forced induction car, 15:1 would be catastrophic. Go get a dyno tune. They can pull some fuel and add some timing.

If i stomp the gas from a 5mph roll, I light em up and get some nasty wheel hop. 2nd gear the car gets sideways, and chirps in 3rd and throws the rear out ever so slightly (although sometimes it suprises me and gets a lil fishy). It has always burned 1st and 2nd, even when it was bone stock.

Damn, i think my local napa charged me like $15 for the little tool. :nono:

There is a washer inside the crank pulley, it's about a 1/4" thick. Make sure you pull it out first. :nonono: It's a very easy install. OH, you'll need a torque wrench

Mine is on the A-pillar in a charcoal colored gauge pod. White face to match my gauges. Nice contrast with the rest of the interior

If you spray through the MAF you'll fool the computer into thinking it's cold and it will dump in some more fuel, possibly pull timing. It's a bad idea tho. I know a guy that sprays his V-6 that way, he averages around a 16:1 A/F ratio. I don't know why he hasn't blown his engine up yet. Sell...

Wow, that is impressive. I want one "My blower has a larger displacement than your H22!" LOL, But seriosuly, poor honda boys :(

$70 for 2 pieces of plastic????? :shrug: ehhh, nah.

I'd say mid 13's. I'm not even going to guess on the dyno. Like was said above, diff cars react differently, and dynos will read differently. BTW, I dynoed 249.5/284 with LT's, O/R h-pipe, cat back, and intake.

The KC and HD clutch KITS are different. Diff pressure plates, but to the best of my knowledge same TOB and clutch disc. I was never arguing anything about the KC, my point was with HD and stock clutch.

Mine went last summer. I never had ANY problems with it, then all of a sudden at a gas station, it was DEAD. Starter didn't even click. If i had to guess I would say between 35-40K on it then.

Reading. Comprehension.

Don't get me wrong, I gave them good reviews too in the past, but that is before I saw how bad the collectors look. I would still go with these over the MAC's tho. Plus, They're still under warranty, I just don't want to do the install. :(

You're kidding , right? Ford Racing Performance Products -vs- OEM Ford parts. They're made by the same company with a different label on the box! The HD clutch may very be an upgraded clutch for a T-5 or previous generation mustang, but it is the exact same part number that came out of my...

I had cereamic coated BBK LT's installed last july, and they are rusted to hell and back. I'd go with a different brand, see if you can find a stainless steel header.

Bad info??? Unless some clutch bandit crawled under my car and changed the stock clutch one night while I was sleeping, they're the same part. From my reading, the KC uses the same disc, but a different pressure plate designed to reduce pedel effort (personally, I like a little pressure). The...