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From what I recall, there are two things you need to take into account here. The first is the bellhousing, which you already know. THe second is the input shaft. The bellhousing was deeper to push the shifter on the transmission further back and as such, the input shaft is longer. There is no...

I'm replacing the strut rod bushing and I'm wondering if there are any specifics with respect to the two large nuts that compress the bushing. There was nothing about it int he shop manual I have, and I'm not sure if I just wrench one nut down tight or try and do it to both. EDIT: BTW, I did go...

I checked the two manuals I have and it didn't have anything regarding the sway bar.

I just finished installing a 1 1/8" sway bar in the front, and then went to go install the rear one. When I was reading the directions, I noticed that it said that the end link bolts for the rear sway bar should NOT be over-tightened (it said you should be able to spin the washer) or it could...

If the car is painted then I would just weld them. It's on the bottom of the door so that texture point is somewhat moot since you really can't see it unless you look for it.

It's be easier to just weld on a quadrant from a kit like that offered from Mustang Steve (or just make one yourself). I'd also suggest that you convert over to a roller bearing set up when you do this (Mustang Steve sells a kit or you can just make it yourself). It really depends on how strong...

Can you take a picture showing how the line goes above the MC?

It really depends on how much money you are willing to spend. If all you want to do is beat the civics and such at your HS, then you can easily do that with an engine rebuild, Edelbrock package (heads, cam, intake, and carb), and a new set of gears in the rear. Is the car manual or automatic?

Depends on what you want out of it. I personally wanted sound over performance so I have Tri-Y's going to flowmaster 40's with 2.5" pipe that do not cross over. I have turn-downs on the mufflers exit, so you really hear the exhaust from all angles. I went and took a few videos with a digital...

Mustangs Plus lists two different clips (one marked as an upper clip). I order 10 of each for the rear. I'll let you know what I took when I finish installing it.

I'd drive it around with no gas cap (like ForceFed70 suggested) first before you go and drill a hole in anything.

Is the battery grounded to the body as well?

How many upper and non upper clips are needed to attach the rear molding for a 67 coupe?

Well, if your carb get's too hot it can cause vapor lock, or in the case of my car, not starting back up within a certain window of time after the car has been shut off.

You adjusted the bias valve so that the rear brakes are getting no pressure?

Does it start right back up when it dies? If it was his gas cap though, shouldn't he not be able to re-start the car? I would assume that if back pressure was preventing the pump from pushing fuel, then it wouldn't start up. What caught my attention is that it happens between 1-2pm, so I'm...

You don't have to have 3.50 with a manual. I got my 4.11's from summit and haven't had an issue with them.

Is the rear a 8" or 9"?

Mustangs Plus does sell a chassis strengthening kit that helps prevent body twisting and flexing. Mustang Parts from Mustangs Plus :: Sheet Metal :: Chassis Strengthening Kit :: 1965-68 Coupe/Fastback Chassis Strengthening Kit You can also get a Monte Carlo bar and some sub-frame connectors...

Very nice; I've been thinking of doing that myself.