Search results

No testing required...ARP did that. I use them 3-5 times before putting a new set in and have never had a problem.

With a Tremec TKO and 8.8 rear with 4.10's I lost 12% from an engine dyno to a dynojet chassis dyno.

Or...you could move the engine back that extra little bit. hehehe That's what I did!

I agree, 3.73's would be nice for you're car. 3.55's won't be enough.

I'll only add that I prefer the TW heads...

I wouldn't claim that the Explorer intakes are bad in any way. Perhaps other intakes make more power if you cam and rev the motors with decent heads and such but the Explorer unit is a very nice street intake. I used one on my last NMRA FS car and made 310 rwhp through it completely untouched...

Yes, to a point. I've seen them go 9.4's and never break but I don't know that I would go much faster with one in the car.

I have used and seen the 8.8 T-loc take some serious abuse. All 31 spline 8.8 carriers use the larger 7/8" pin rather than the 28 spline 3/4" pin. The best value out there is the Ford 31-spline T-loc and it can be repacked with a $50 kit easily. If you don't use the 31spline T-loc than a...

I think it's around $110-120 or so...very reasonable.

Though I'm not against them I would not trust the same ones that the LS1 guys use on you're engine. LS1's use much lighter valvetrain than 5.0's do which allows them to get away with some pretty cool light stuff. I would use this spring kit...

How light do you want the car? You have an ET goal and you should be able to estimate how much power you'll be able to make with the engine you are looking at. So, that just leaves the question of how light you need to be to run those numbers with the power you expect to make. My 95 now...

Hmmm...learn something new everyday.

don't weld it...it's a spring and by welding it you will change it's rate and make it more brittle. Tell you're parents to climb under a v6 stang and look for that silly bar, they won't find one.

I agree. Everyone likes something a little different but my car with LT's, off-road X and 3-chambers sounded great IMO and had absolutely zero drone at any rpm. I couldn't even hear the exhaust in the car cruising on the highway (with no rear seat or anything in the trunk too!) but when you...

You need to run more than 18psi on a street type low profile radial like that. I would start around 26psi and work you're way up from there until they work best. My experience is that 28-32 psi works good but every tire/wheel combo is a bit different.

Tmoss uses a stock cam and makes that kind of power with similiar parts. I'd say try it with the stock cam first.

af ratio doesn't really change the HP in these cars too much running N/A. Timing is the key... I'd be curious to see the power differences under the curve too. Hey, if you're a gluten (sp?) for punishment I can lone you my Mac 1 3/4 LT's and matching DR Gax X pipe...just to see if that...

With the 3.73's you have I'd stick with the 275/50/15's. If you have not purchased the wheels yet I would consider a 15x9 or 15x10.

There really is a difference between the two. I've had both in hand at the same time and the lower port to head opening is certainly different. Maybe not something that will make any difference when you are porting them but in stock form the GT-40/Cobra lower is larger.

his are better...that is plenty rough for the rings to seat well.