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I have a QR on my Moto-Lita wheel. Bought it from Cobra Auto a number of years ago. Simple to install and makes it a lot easier getting in and out of the car.

I welded mine after the primaries converge in the collector (Try-Y's).

Have mine vented from the valve covers to the headers, works real good!

I run a stock type suspension in my 66. 9" rear, Tru-Trac locker, 4.11 gears, panhard bar, 4 1/2 mid eye leafs and Koni shocks. On the street with the crappy street tires, traction is directly proportional to the force applied by the right foot. At the track with sticky tires it's awesome! Very...

I've run Hoosier R6's (225/45), Goodyear Bluestreaks (6.00x15) and now Nitto NT-01's (225/45). They are all great tires, with diff characteristics and prices! I run 15x7's both on the track and on the street (215/60), it is a little harder to turn with sticky tires, but not so hard I think...

I have side exits on my 66. 289 running into a 2 1/2" X pipe and Dynomax race bullets. It's pretty loud, but that's the way I like it. YouTube - 1966 Mustang sound bite 1

Cobra Automotive has adj. brake rods.

I have a Northern race pro 19" x22" that I've been running for 5 years. The car runs great and after I added a shroud, stays cool when idling. These guys: Universal Parts, Inc. sell Northern radiators and parts. Their prices are even better on ebay.

Here's what the drop in Pro Cell looks like.

I have Dynomax race bullets on my 289 and they are pretty dang loud. Just the way I like them! I have a link to a sound bite on my CarDomain site below, bottom of 1st page.

I have the Lincoln type, 12", 4 piston front discs with std 10"x 2" rear drums. 1 1/16" bore MC, Motul 600 fluid and Porterfield R4 pads with R4S rear shoes. It'll make your eyes pop out under heavy braking! I run 3-4 15-20 minute sessions per day, on track and the manual brakes are not overly...

I'd say go with the Tri-Y's, I've never had a problem with them leaking or coming loose. They are easy to get on and off too. I have the set from Thermal Tech Coatings.

Here's a link to my 66, 289, 2 1/2" pipe, X-pipe, Dynomax race bullets and side exit. It's pretty loud! YouTube - 1966 Mustang sound bite 1

It should be a 289 unless someone replaced it in it's history. The block is stamped with the date on the underside rear, by the starter IIRC. You could also pull the valve covers and see the date stamp of the heads.

I would still keep at least -.05 degrees camber.

Here's a Link to a youtube video that just has the car running. 1966 289, built to vintage race specs, X pipe and Dynomax bullets.

IMO, yes. I do my own alignment and have zero problems. I added the vario kit to add more adjustability into the front. With the vario-centric lower arm and using shims on the upper arms the range of adjustment skyrocketed! I also have adjustable strut rods from Street or Track, which helps...

I could show you where my prop valve is, but it probably won't help you (mounted next to driver seat). It usually is placed by the MC where it's easy to access for adjustment. Install it in-line on the rear brake line.

Here's my clunker, there are a lot more pics at my Cardomain site. This pic is of the 66 in it's "happy place"

You can snake a towel up through the hats and cover the area that will be seen, the towel will have enough weight to keep it in place. Once in, you can spread it out using metal strapping through the vent openings.