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I don't know how to take it apart, but I've got exactly the same problem and would love to fix it.

Excellent, thanks very much for the reply. That's one upgrade I don't need to worry about for a while then.

On a related note, I currently have thumper E7 heads and stock intake with tmoss ported lower. Dyno'd at around 300fwhp. Would a cobra intake likely show much improvement? Enough for the cost?

I'd add full length subframe connectors and decent lower control arms.

Cool, thanks. I have a shift light, but have been guessing what to set it to. That is the other reason I went to the dyno. Any idea what could cause that or what I could do to change it? Seems like I need both more and less fuel, so changing the fuel pressure, for example, doesn't sound...

What would be the best rpm to shift at, based on that graph? (that is what I meant to ask in the first place) 60' times are around 2.0x on a good day. I've got MM lower control arms which have helped a lot. I want to get the rear axles stronger before I switch to drag radials. Weight is the...

I finally found a dyno reasonably local to me (this is in England) and did a couple of power runs on their dyno. It's got stock heads (thumper ported), stock cam and and stock intake (tmoss ported lower), 1.7rr, 65mm throttle body, headers and not much else, engine wise. It turned out to...

Stock fuel pressure is 38-40 psi, I believe, so you may just need some more.

Looks good! Interesting place for the gauges. I've already got a triple A Pillar set and was thinking of putting a couple in the slot under the radio. I wasn't sure if they'd be too low to see though.

Have you checked the timing? Vacuum with a gauge? If it's stock heads/engine, maybe the 30# injectors are just too big, even if they are calibrated?

I had a similar problem after replacing the rack and inner tie rods. Alignment was completely out, even by eye. This made a wierd clunk sound, again from the drivers side. Had the alignment done and it's been fine ever since. I didn't figure out what was actually making the sound.

Can anyone tell me the size/diameter of the floor pan studs that the front of the seats bolt to? Thanks very much for any help.

It sounds like the best idea is dyno time to find out exactly what state it's in now, before deciding what to buy next.

Will advancing the cam 2 degrees, as shown below, affect the timing marks on the balancer? (bottom pic) Will zero on the balancer still point to TDC?

I've ordered the Totally Stainless kit and am still on the lookout for anything else that may work until it arrives.

Any idea where to get this? No-one seems to sell a complete (and correct!) kit of all the water pump/timing chain cover bolts and studs. I've bought an ARP kit, which is just bolts. I've also bought several of the 23744 kits which contain 1 bolt, a short stud and a long (but not long enough)...

LX's didn't have fog lights, so I'd assume they wouldn't have the bar either, as it doesn't do anything else. It's definitely nothing to do with the bumper itself.

That's almost exactly what I'm doing over the winter. Mine will still be speed density, but every other part is what I've got.

I removed the fog lights and bracket from behind the front bumper. The bottom of the bumper (under the 'hole') bolts to this. Anyway, the whole thing weighs 20lbs according to my cheap scales. There is another piece higher up which is part of the bumper itself - I wouldn't take that bit out.

Front fog light bar, with lights - 20lbs A/C compressor - 17lbs 10 hole wheel with 235/60/15 SLX5000 tyre - 46lbs MM Strut Brace - 8 lbs