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Thanks for all the advice. I'll check it out and see what I can find. BTW it's definitely connected to the timed port on the carb. Not full manifold.

htwheelz67 - how can the timing become retarded from the initial base timing by only adjusting the vacuum advance? I don't think that's possible. Vacuum advance only advances timing from the base, it doesn't retard it.

I just want to add that it has no problem starting up and running well with the vacuum advance adjusted to about 2.5-3 turns from the least amount of spring resistance. It's when I turn the vacuum advance all the way to the least resistance that it won't start up. This is what doesn't make...

The starter spins fine, it just won't fire up. Appreciate any ideas. Thanks

I've got a built '65 289. I'm using the original distributor which has been upgraded to electronic ignition with an Ignitor II. Base timing is 16 degrees. Disti is adding another 22 max. I'm trying to dial in the vacuum advance and when I turn the vacuum adjustment 3 turns from the lowest...

Thanks for the advice, however I do have the vacuum line disconnected from the distributor and plugged at the carb, so the vacuum should not be adding timing. I'm also using a timing light with a tach and the 30 degree readings are at around 750 to 800 rpm, so I would not expect to see any...

Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it.

I hear what you guys are saying but the balancer is a brand new reproduction item from Virginia classic mustang. Take a look at the attached pics of the motor. The first shows the #1 at TDC and the second, although not clear, shows the timing pointer at TDC on the balancer. Is it possible...

My '65 block was rebuilt as a 331 stroker using a scat crankshaft part number 4-302-3250-5400. My builder reused the original damper and the original timing cover which has the pointer on the driver side. Now that I have the motor back in the car and running, when I tried to adjust the timing...

You may want to put in a call to Steve Ashworth Performance in Fuquay Varina. I don't think he has a dyno at his shop, but I'm sure he could refer you to a good place. I've had some work done there and they are very knowledgable.

Hey, I'd love to give you the details on the motor, but I might run into you on Pinks one day, so all I'll say is the block is original and that's about the only thing that is original :)

Here is a side shot.

Ha Ha. That's great. You would have to notice the rust on the distributor cap! Anyway, I think you spotted all the mods although you missed a couple that would have been hard to see. I have the brake proportioning valve mounted on a bracket using one of the master cylinder mounting bolts, a...

Here's mine

Let me know what you think.

Well it looks like the problem was a bad battery ground. I took the battery out of the trunk and used jumper cables to hook it up to the solenoid. I wasn't getting any power until I hooked up the negative jumper cable to the bare metal radiator bracket. Then all the lights came on. So I...

There's no fuses along those lines that I am aware of. There was no smell of anything burning when this happened. The fuses in the fuse panel all look good, but I think they are primarily for the accessories and wouldn't cause all the electrical to shut down. I think I'll go get a voltage...

I am in the process of restoring a 65. I have replaced all the wiring harnesses and moved the battery to the trunk. I have also switched to the Ford Motorsports mini starter. When I installed the new mini starter I thought I would be slick and use an original 65 starter wire from the fender...

The problem is I'm not sure where the drain plug is. I see the fill hole on the back, but where do you drain the fluid from? Is there another drain hole somewhere?

I've been looking for step by step instructions on how to change the gear oil in a 1965 Ford 8" rear end and have not been successful. I think the process must be different than for a 9". Can anyone give me the steps or direct me to a link where I can find them? Thanks