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i'm gonna take off my upper g-40 intake tomorrow, just wondering if I should use some red RTV on the upper to lower gasket?? Thanks

i've reserved this weekend to tearing the engine. I think I may have 2 issues....I definately have a miss happening, probably a problem with an injector or the harness connector. I've already done a full tune (plugs, wires, cap/rotor). The second issue may be a burnt vavle if the injector is...

I'm having what sounds like an injector not firing...sounds like a bad exhaust leak (tic-tic-tic) (not valve clatter) and I had to drive the car today..after I got home I check the engine and could hear what was sounding like smooth metal to metal...dryish (hard to make the sound). Could this be...

it seems to me that when my buddy did the distributor drop in after cam/heads swap he may have waited until both valves were closed (back yard method, maybe?) and then dropped it in...this might have made it off?? I dunno. Also, he may have used the front right cylinder which would be #5 not...

my car runs choppie from idle on up to 4k (can't tell over the rumble), has trouble maintaining cruising at any speeds without some surging. How can I tell if my distributor is one tooth off? thanks

the timing is at 0 when i have the timing light set to 10 on the dial. i reset the computer..maybe this'll help...if not,i'll make an appt for the dyno tune.

detonation sounds like marbles in your motor when you have the motor under a load (lead foot)...it's the same thing as hitting the side of the motor with a sledge hammer if you can hear it while driving.

how do i know if my distributor is out of phase? opps..i think i need to have the spout plugged in $%#&@* i'm wondering if when i did some major work to my car if i got the distributor in wrong. for some reason i think when my friend set the dist he used the front driverside cyclinder (#5)...

I tried checking the timing advance and ran the rpm up over 4k and the timing mark didn't move away from 10* (SPOUT was removed). I tried to run the scanner and key on eng off was good...i tried the eng run test and I can't get past the eng identifier code **** (8 cyclinder). here's soem info...

i'm also put in autolite 25's...not sure what this matters..if any.

i installed a msd-8455 did a compression check..all cycl are 147 to 151. The car idles at 700rpm ok with a e303 but when i drive it, the car seems jumpie and some jerking, specially if i try to maintain a constant cruising speed (say 40 in 4th). I'm wondering if the weights are set incorrectly...

the original FMU was I think 12:1..powerdyne sent me I think 8:1 for the 9psi set-up but not 100% possitive,,could dig through receipts. My FP is 42 at idle...WOT, not sure. Dyno guy tells me as long as no detonation, should be good. I'm more currious about what I should set the base timing...

get the car chassis tuned via a dyno and have a custom chip tailored to your stang. I use www.racesystems.com

my 95gt had an intake leak at the MAF...since I fixed it, my boost went from 4-5psi to 9psi. The car was dyno tuned for the 4-5psi. Now I get just a hint of detonation when I jump on it (especially when I'm in the 3-4k rpm area but it goes away about as quick as it started. I have the timing set...

Take off the front drivers side wheel...remove plastic spash gaurd, mount MSD Ignition to upper right side of engine compartment in wheel well...route the wires out the hole by the windshield washer bottle to the battery and run remaining wires down the strut tower brace accordingly. Reinstall...

I have a 95GT 5sp, daily driver that's heavily modified, and always run like crap. I'm one of those guys that buys stuff here there and then when I got a bunch of mods I slap them on. I had bought GT-40 heads, intake, E303 cam, 65mmTB, 75mm Pro-M MAF, bbk CAI, MAC (crap) eq. sht headers...